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MY HOLLAND LOPS | SHOWING RABBITS | RABBIT GENETICS | FOR BREEDERS | BLOG | RABBIT STORE |
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Breeding Holland Lop RabbitsHolland Lop Rabbit FurHolland Lop Rabbit FAQsCoping with Diarrhea
Rabbit NamesA Well-stocked Bunny Barn - List
How To Build Nest Boxes (Kindling Boxes)
How to Build Hanging Rabbit CagesMagnet System of Rabbit Barn Management
Glossary of Rabbit Terms
Holland Lop Breeder's Prefix Index
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Rabbit Care During MoltingCaring For Your Holland Lop Rabbit During Molting
Finally, your Holland is molting out that ratty fur and you are ready to help him or her get the best fur possible. Now what? Of course, for some breeders, the method is a heavily guarded secret. But luckily, there are some breeders who are willing to share with us. Kathy Schwartz points out first of all, that different bunnies have different quality fur. At its best, one Holland's fur may knock yours socks off while another's is just okay. Genetics plays a large role here. Using a bunny's natural, genetically influenced fur condition as one of your culling factors will help to improve your herd's fur condition over the long term. But we still want to get the best fur from each rabbit that is possible. So how do we proceed? Start with the basics of plenty of fresh, clean water. It seems so simple, but can be easily overlooked. Water bottles that drip, water lines that freeze, bowls that tip over or are too small for the bunny's water requirements, and inconsistent watering schedules are all problems that should be addressed in the rabbitry. Next on the list is a good feed. That's a tough one and you will get different recommendations from different breeders, although I think most breeders will agree that consistency in feed, time of feeding, and amount is crucial. I believe that most Holland breeders feed either a 16% or 17% protein feed. With the lower protein, you have less problems with enteritis, but more problem with conditioning and keeping a prime coat. With the higher protein, your bunnies' conditions may be better, but you do increase the chances of problems such as enteritis. To find a good feed, it may be best to talk to top breeders in your local area. It doesn't help to find out that Brand A is great if it isn't available near you. Of course, some breeders do have their feed shipped in, but that does add considerable expense. Others mix their own, but you may not feel qualified to do that. If good feed is not available in your area, band together with other breeders (rabbit and other animal breeder) to encourage a particular brand to service your area. I am a big believer in hay. I feed hay daily, but the minimum requirement, I believe, is hay every other day, a regimen that is suggested by Allan Ormond. Hay has so many benefits and is so relatively cheap that there's no good reason, at least in my mind, not to feed hay. Feeding hay relieves stress, promotes natural wearing of teeth, relieves boredom, helps with digestion, and so forth. Feed hay!
I do have problems finding good hay. Often I find hay that is overly dusty, weedy, full of thorns, or full of straw. When I am able to get a nice green hay with a sweet smell, little dust, few weeds, and no thorns, the bunnies devour the hay in no time. It is a huge treat for them. You could certainly stop here and have healthy rabbits. But to add that extra special something, you may want to try one or more of these:
One last word about feeds and supplements: try to stay away from too much molasses. First, it can cause excessive cecal matter and possibly cause enteritis. Secondly, it promotes excessive fat, which should not be confused with condition.
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Rabbit Fur
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