The Nature Trail Rabbitry BLOG
Friday, September 30, 2005
Pre-Order Supplies For Convention Pick Up
Shipping costs will just eat your lunch on items such as wire for cage building, feed supplements like Show Bloom or Doc's Rabbit Enhancer. Give some thought to what you will need during the next six months. If you pre-order now, you can pick it up at ARBA Convention and save a bundle. Don't risk their running out or not having exactly what you are looking for. Let them know!
Have you ever looked through your Klubertanz, Bass, KW Cages or DaMars catalog and wondered what something really looked like or how it might work? Is it as sturdy as it looks? Does that book cover what I need to know?
Do some catalog browsing now and mark the items you can to really take a closer look at while you are at Convention. Things can get hectic, so doing a little preparation work now will help you make the most of your time there.
You will regret getting home only to wish you had taken a look at something while you were there.
When you get to Convention, make sure you carve out some time to check out all of the vendors. Last year, I was able to watch a video that showed palpating. You never know what great tips you will pick up.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html
¶ 11:18 AM links to this post
Have you ever looked through your Klubertanz, Bass, KW Cages or DaMars catalog and wondered what something really looked like or how it might work? Is it as sturdy as it looks? Does that book cover what I need to know?
Do some catalog browsing now and mark the items you can to really take a closer look at while you are at Convention. Things can get hectic, so doing a little preparation work now will help you make the most of your time there.
You will regret getting home only to wish you had taken a look at something while you were there.
When you get to Convention, make sure you carve out some time to check out all of the vendors. Last year, I was able to watch a video that showed palpating. You never know what great tips you will pick up.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html
¶ 11:18 AM links to this post
Thursday, September 29, 2005
Fuzzy Hollands
From time to time, some Hollands produce fuzzy Hollands. You can easily pet out (sell as pets) these fuzzies; they are very popular with pet customers. If you decide to pedigree them and sell them, make sure that you advertise and pedigree them as Fuzzy Hollands as not as American Fuzzy Lops. Those two are not the same thing. Some American Fuzzy Lop breeders may decide to incorporate a fuzzy Holland into their lines, but it is only ethical that they know upfront exactly what the bunny is.
Hollands with one fuzzy gene will typically have a very dense, slightly longish fur. This type of coat gives the Holland a more massive look without adding weight. The judge may ding the rabbit, however, on the length of the fur, which will often not roll back properly (it may or may not need to be smoothed).
You can use your fuzzy Holland to breed with Hollands that do not carry the fuzzy gene. The result with be a litter of regular, non-fuzzy Hollands that each carry the fuzzy gene and should have denser fur.
If you breed your fuzzy Holland to a Holland that carries the fuzzy gene, then you would get 50% fuzzies and 50% fuzzy carriers, on the average.
When you breed two fuzzy-gene carrying Hollands together, you should get fuzzies 25% of the time, on the average, fuzzy carriers about half of the time, and Hollands that do not carry the fuzzy gene 25% of the time.
Visit The Nature Trail Rabbitry website for more information on Fuzzy Holland Lops.
Hollands with one fuzzy gene will typically have a very dense, slightly longish fur. This type of coat gives the Holland a more massive look without adding weight. The judge may ding the rabbit, however, on the length of the fur, which will often not roll back properly (it may or may not need to be smoothed).
You can use your fuzzy Holland to breed with Hollands that do not carry the fuzzy gene. The result with be a litter of regular, non-fuzzy Hollands that each carry the fuzzy gene and should have denser fur.
If you breed your fuzzy Holland to a Holland that carries the fuzzy gene, then you would get 50% fuzzies and 50% fuzzy carriers, on the average.
When you breed two fuzzy-gene carrying Hollands together, you should get fuzzies 25% of the time, on the average, fuzzy carriers about half of the time, and Hollands that do not carry the fuzzy gene 25% of the time.
Visit The Nature Trail Rabbitry website for more information on Fuzzy Holland Lops.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html
Wednesday, September 28, 2005
Educating Your Buyers
I've heard breeders say that they just can't sell pets over the age of 5 to 8 weeks old. When I tell them that I routinely sell mine at 3 to 6 months old, they are astounded. I've never sold rabbits below the age of 8 weeks and I've made 3 months my new absolute minimum.
(Breeders listed on my Precious Pet Rabbits site do not sell their rabbits below the age of 8 weeks.)
The reason I am able to sell older bunnies is simple. I firmly believe in my heart that it is the right thing to do for the rabbits. I have gone over the benefits of adopting slightly older bunnies in my mind and I'm very clear that there are benefits. And I've seen and heard about the pitfalls of adopting young rabbits all too often.
Back when I would sell an eight-week old, I would talk to my customers about the differences between the younger and older bunnies. In every case, the customer chose to adopt the older one.
I frequently get emails back from my customers telling me how much they love their bunny and how well the bunny adapted to their home (it generally takes about three days). The fears that an older bunny won't love the new owner or can't be litter trained are baseless. In fact, an older bunny's longer attention span helps both in developing a relationship and in litter training.
If you are not clear about the benefits of adopting older bunnies, you may want to take a look at "Adopting Adult And Nearly-Adult Rabbits" And yesterday, I wrote an article for Go Articles entitled "Getting Rabbits Too Young." It is available to be downloaded and placed on your website, if you have one (author bio and copyright must be included).
The first step in being able to sell pet rabbits at an older age is to thoroughly understand the benefits yourself. Then you will be able to educate your customers in a natural, conversational manner. You will be helping your rabbit and his new owner.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html
¶ 11:08 AM 0 comments links to this post
(Breeders listed on my Precious Pet Rabbits site do not sell their rabbits below the age of 8 weeks.)
The reason I am able to sell older bunnies is simple. I firmly believe in my heart that it is the right thing to do for the rabbits. I have gone over the benefits of adopting slightly older bunnies in my mind and I'm very clear that there are benefits. And I've seen and heard about the pitfalls of adopting young rabbits all too often.
Back when I would sell an eight-week old, I would talk to my customers about the differences between the younger and older bunnies. In every case, the customer chose to adopt the older one.
I frequently get emails back from my customers telling me how much they love their bunny and how well the bunny adapted to their home (it generally takes about three days). The fears that an older bunny won't love the new owner or can't be litter trained are baseless. In fact, an older bunny's longer attention span helps both in developing a relationship and in litter training.
If you are not clear about the benefits of adopting older bunnies, you may want to take a look at "Adopting Adult And Nearly-Adult Rabbits" And yesterday, I wrote an article for Go Articles entitled "Getting Rabbits Too Young." It is available to be downloaded and placed on your website, if you have one (author bio and copyright must be included).
The first step in being able to sell pet rabbits at an older age is to thoroughly understand the benefits yourself. Then you will be able to educate your customers in a natural, conversational manner. You will be helping your rabbit and his new owner.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html
¶ 11:08 AM 0 comments links to this post
Tuesday, September 27, 2005
Running Rabbits
Are you going to ARBA Convention this year? Is it your first time? If so, you should definitely consider running rabbits. What is running rabbits? I'll tell you!
Unlike most shows where exhibitors bring their own rabbits to the table, at national shows, runners bring the rabbits to the judging tables. This year the number of entered rabbits is large, so it will take a number of runners working constantly to keep the judging tables full for the judges.
The benefits of being a runner are many:
Unlike most shows where exhibitors bring their own rabbits to the table, at national shows, runners bring the rabbits to the judging tables. This year the number of entered rabbits is large, so it will take a number of runners working constantly to keep the judging tables full for the judges.
The benefits of being a runner are many:
- You help this huge show run smoothly
- You stay involved and are more likely to listen to the judge's comments while you are waiting for the next rabbit
- You will get to know people more easily because you are involved in the show
- You will get to see a rabbit up close just after the judge has made his or her comments - that's a real learning experience
- You will have a great time.
Running is not hard (and you don't have to do it all day). There are just a few things to do and remember. First, the ramrod will pass out slips of paper or cards to the runners as he or she needs more rabbits on the table. You will see the coop number on the slip and go find the rabbit by that number. When you go to the coop you should:
- Check to see if the exhibitor has written scratch on the coop or has left it locked, the rabbit may not actually need to be shown (discuss any problems with the ramrod)
- Check the ear number of the rabbit. Sometimes a sale rabbit has been placed in the coop and the entered rabbit was supposed to be scratched. Or an exhibitor could have his or her rabbit in the wrong coop.
- If the ear number is correct, take the rabbit out of the coop by lifting first and then removing. Do not drag a rabbit's nails across the wire. Do not lift by the scruff (can stretch the neck skin). This rabbit could be the culmination of many years' work - handle with care!
- Take the rabbit and the card back to the juding coops. The ramrod will have his or her own system, but generally, you put the rabbit in the coop and place the card upside down on top of it (remember, the judge should not see the contents of the card, which contains an ear number he or she may recognize)
Of course rabbits must go back to the coop as well. When returning the rabbit, you will also leave a slip of paper that shows that the rabbit has already been judged. Try to find a place to tuck the paper where it is less likely to be eaten by the rabbit, such as behind it's feed dish.
Last year at Holland Lop Nationals, I found someone taking one of my scratched rabbits out of the coop. [I found out later that none of my scratches had been removed from the cards. I learned to write SCRATCH on the coop card and zip tie shut the coops for scratched rabbits.] As I approached, the runner dropped my rabbit on the floor and had to scramble after him. He did not bring the rabbit back to me (I realize now that he didn't know I was the owner about to ask him what he was doing with my rabbit). We searched through all of the rabbits on the table to find him so that I could check to make sure he was alright (he was).
Anytime a rabbit hits the floor, teeth, nails, and bones should be checked. Things will happen, but if a rabbit gets away, you should take him to the ramrod so that you can both check his teeth and nails together.
Running is tiring, but not hard to do. It's an important part of making the show run smoothly. And you have a lot to gain both in terms of learning about your breed and having fun from being involved.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html
Monday, September 26, 2005
Travel Tip
Pack your rabbits in your vehicle sideways, that is, with your rabbits' heads facing the side of your vehicle. If you have to brake suddenly, your rabbits' bodies will be thrown against the wire - a much better option than having their teeth hit the wire. I picked up this tip from ARBA Judge Bill Rice this weekend, who was giving comments on a rabbit with a broken tooth.
For more tips on traveling with your rabbits, check out Show Rabbit Car Travel on my website.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html ¶ 11:39 AM 0 comments links to this post
For more tips on traveling with your rabbits, check out Show Rabbit Car Travel on my website.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html ¶ 11:39 AM 0 comments links to this post
Fabulous Weekend
As you can guess from the title, I had a great weekend. I took my two youngest children with me and we headed out in the wee hours of the morning Saturday, bound for for Shelby, NC.
It was great to see some friends that I don't often get to visit with for the second weekend in a row. I love to have a chance to catch up on what's been going on with them.
I got off my diet - twice - for some wonderful homemade ice cream. Do you think we could convince ARBA to make it a rule that ice cream be made available at all sanctioned shows? Let's start a petition.
I registered a couple of rabbits. I like to keep up-to-date on that. I feel it's best to register rabbits just as they turn 6 months old and definitely when you decide they are worthy to breed.
My show results for the triple show were unremarkable. They are listed on my website if you want the details. I didn't enter many rabbits (partly in protest to the $4 per rabbit entry fee) and things didn't go my way very often. I did get a leg on The Nature Trail's Trevor, a broken junior buck that I have hopes for. I learned that Merlin and Ox aren't really cut out to show two weekends in a row. They go off feed and both boys need to keep their weight up to look good.
After the show, the Sandhills Rabbit Fanciers club held a meeting. It was a wonderful session of evaluating our past show and beginning to make plans for the next. I can't say enough good things about this club and their dedication to putting on the very best show possible - I'm so glad to be a part. I can say that we will have something worth looking forward to next year for those who show in Distict 9.
After the meeting, my girls went to spend the night with their good friend Fayth Young of Sugar Plum Bunnies. I was the next to last person to leave the show and left from there to spend the night with my in-laws in Rock Hill, SC, in preparation for showing the next day in Columbia.
My mother-in-law chatted until well after midnight (my father-in-law and I talked websites earlier in the evening), so I had 4 hours sleep for the second night in a row.
And I had another great day. I had already had so much fun by the time the Hollands hit the table (around 3:00 p.m., I'd estimate), that it had already been worth the trip.
I wrote almost all of the day (except for the Hollands and mini-lops). Judge Bill Rice had a ton of rabbits to get through and we worked at a flying speed all day.
I wrote with another Holland breeder at the writing table and we had lots of fun, trying to keep up, trying to hear over the fan, trying to keep on top of things and keep our sense of humor in the heat and inevitable stress when you have so many people and personalities in one place.
I showed quite a few more Hollands at this show than in Shelby. I had to enter them by August 25, which is tough to do (I litterally did not even own 3 of the rabbits anymore that I had entered). But the entry fee was only $1.50 per rabbit and ear number changes are allowed. I was excited to get to show a large number of juniors to get their first experience on the table for such a reasonable expense.
My rabbits did very well. I took all 7 classes that I had rabbits entered in. I actually felt a little guilty and hoped I hadn't ruined someone else's day. The Nature Trail's Franz, BSB, was BOB, The Nature Trail's Jo-Jo, SJD, was BOS, and The Nature Trail's Genjo, SJB, was BOSV. The other BOSV went to a broken junior doe. I failed to get the owner's name. Sorry. If it was your rabbit, let me know and I'll post it.
This show was Jo-Jo and Genjo's first time on the table.
If you live near South Carolina, I'd recommend that you consider going to the SC Fair show if you are looking for a laid back atmosphere and some fun. It's hard to remember to enter a month in advance, but it's very cost effective and has cash payback.
I left the show around 4:00 p.m. and headed for Hickory to pick up my kids who had had a grand time. Thank you, Lisa and Fayth, for taking such good care of my girls and letting me get away to SC. I got home around 10:00, exhausted, but pleased with my weekend.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html ¶ 10:56 AM 0 comments links to this post
It was great to see some friends that I don't often get to visit with for the second weekend in a row. I love to have a chance to catch up on what's been going on with them.
I got off my diet - twice - for some wonderful homemade ice cream. Do you think we could convince ARBA to make it a rule that ice cream be made available at all sanctioned shows? Let's start a petition.
I registered a couple of rabbits. I like to keep up-to-date on that. I feel it's best to register rabbits just as they turn 6 months old and definitely when you decide they are worthy to breed.
My show results for the triple show were unremarkable. They are listed on my website if you want the details. I didn't enter many rabbits (partly in protest to the $4 per rabbit entry fee) and things didn't go my way very often. I did get a leg on The Nature Trail's Trevor, a broken junior buck that I have hopes for. I learned that Merlin and Ox aren't really cut out to show two weekends in a row. They go off feed and both boys need to keep their weight up to look good.
After the show, the Sandhills Rabbit Fanciers club held a meeting. It was a wonderful session of evaluating our past show and beginning to make plans for the next. I can't say enough good things about this club and their dedication to putting on the very best show possible - I'm so glad to be a part. I can say that we will have something worth looking forward to next year for those who show in Distict 9.
After the meeting, my girls went to spend the night with their good friend Fayth Young of Sugar Plum Bunnies. I was the next to last person to leave the show and left from there to spend the night with my in-laws in Rock Hill, SC, in preparation for showing the next day in Columbia.
My mother-in-law chatted until well after midnight (my father-in-law and I talked websites earlier in the evening), so I had 4 hours sleep for the second night in a row.
And I had another great day. I had already had so much fun by the time the Hollands hit the table (around 3:00 p.m., I'd estimate), that it had already been worth the trip.
I wrote almost all of the day (except for the Hollands and mini-lops). Judge Bill Rice had a ton of rabbits to get through and we worked at a flying speed all day.
I wrote with another Holland breeder at the writing table and we had lots of fun, trying to keep up, trying to hear over the fan, trying to keep on top of things and keep our sense of humor in the heat and inevitable stress when you have so many people and personalities in one place.
I showed quite a few more Hollands at this show than in Shelby. I had to enter them by August 25, which is tough to do (I litterally did not even own 3 of the rabbits anymore that I had entered). But the entry fee was only $1.50 per rabbit and ear number changes are allowed. I was excited to get to show a large number of juniors to get their first experience on the table for such a reasonable expense.
My rabbits did very well. I took all 7 classes that I had rabbits entered in. I actually felt a little guilty and hoped I hadn't ruined someone else's day. The Nature Trail's Franz, BSB, was BOB, The Nature Trail's Jo-Jo, SJD, was BOS, and The Nature Trail's Genjo, SJB, was BOSV. The other BOSV went to a broken junior doe. I failed to get the owner's name. Sorry. If it was your rabbit, let me know and I'll post it.
This show was Jo-Jo and Genjo's first time on the table.
If you live near South Carolina, I'd recommend that you consider going to the SC Fair show if you are looking for a laid back atmosphere and some fun. It's hard to remember to enter a month in advance, but it's very cost effective and has cash payback.
I left the show around 4:00 p.m. and headed for Hickory to pick up my kids who had had a grand time. Thank you, Lisa and Fayth, for taking such good care of my girls and letting me get away to SC. I got home around 10:00, exhausted, but pleased with my weekend.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html ¶ 10:56 AM 0 comments links to this post
Friday, September 23, 2005
My Rabbit Won't Eat
Any rabbit can go through a short period of poor appetite. Often, the appetite just picks up on its own after a couple of days. Other times, the loss of appetite precedes other symptoms and leads to death. How do you know the difference?
I'm not sure that I can tell the difference when I first notice that a rabbit hasn't consumed his normal share of feed. So I take any change in eating habits seriously.
The very first thing to check when a rabbit doesn't eat is his water. Rabbits won't eat if they don't drink. I learned the hard way to check for a malfunction in my water system when pellets remain the in the feeder. Luckily I didn't lose my rabbit, but she lost a lot of condition and I felt absolutely horrible.
If a rabbit is on a water system or water bottle for the first time, make sure he understands how to use it. If you provide a crock of water and he swills it, chances are he didn’t understand how to get the water out of the bottle or fount.
I'm not sure that I can tell the difference when I first notice that a rabbit hasn't consumed his normal share of feed. So I take any change in eating habits seriously.
The very first thing to check when a rabbit doesn't eat is his water. Rabbits won't eat if they don't drink. I learned the hard way to check for a malfunction in my water system when pellets remain the in the feeder. Luckily I didn't lose my rabbit, but she lost a lot of condition and I felt absolutely horrible.
If a rabbit is on a water system or water bottle for the first time, make sure he understands how to use it. If you provide a crock of water and he swills it, chances are he didn’t understand how to get the water out of the bottle or fount.
Trust your rabbit's instincts and check his feed. Perhaps his j-feeder has some moldy food stuck in it. Maybe the feed is stale or has another problem. Recheck the milling date on the feed. To be on the safe side, open a new bag.
The next thing I check is what's coming out of my rabbit, which is much more important than what is going in, in my opinion. It can be difficult in hanging cages to determine which poops are recent. I place a clean sheet of newsprint over my manure collection bins to evaluate a rabbit's current output.
If there is little or no new fecal matter, then I treat for GI stasis (email me for a great article on this). If the poops hang together in strings, I would assume that my bunny has consumed too much fur. If there is excessive cecal matter, I would suspect that the gut flora is off, so I would increase hay, eliminate treats, and give probiotics. If I see blood or gel in the stool, then I'd assume I have some sort of infection going on.
When my rabbits are in a really bad molt, I do expect their appetites to be off a little and I do not worry too much about that (except for my concern over excessive fur consumption). For a day or two after I worm my rabbits, I see a general disinterest in feed. During the first hot days of the summer, I may see rabbits reduce their pellet intake. And I become accustomed to which rabbits don't eat as well during traveling.
For rabbits that are just a little off in their appetite, I may tempt them with parsley or cilantro, raspberry leaves, or another treat. Often they will eat their pellets after their interest has been sparked. Conversely, if they are eating treats daily and leaving their pellets, they may have just become finicky eaters who are holding out for the good stuff.
If my rabbit with a poor appetite seems normal in his activity level, has a plentiful, clean water supply that he understands how to use, has normal poops, and hasn't gone very long without eating well, then I don’t worry too much and just keep an eye on him. Usually he is back to normal in a couple of days.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http:/www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG.html
Thursday, September 22, 2005
Rabbitry Websites
Why Have A Website - Websites are one of the best ways to let the world know that your rabbitry exists. To perform their very best function - to put you in touch with people who are looking for you - your website need not be complicated. Believe me, you don't have to spend 40 hours per week at the computer (like I do) in order for your website to be very useful.
A good website will let people know:
If You Want Something More In Your Website - There are many web hosting providers out there that offer hosting for a small monthly fee. I use two different ones currently.
Web hosting with your own domain name costs just a few dollars per month (roughly $6 to $12). People take your website more seriously when you have your own domain name (free websites tend to come and go, but domain name websites just seem more stable). Plus, it's a lot easier to remember www.thenaturetrail.com/ then "www.member.tripod.xxxx/geocities.com" and so forth.
Many web hosting companies have page development tools built in. There are many with templates available. You just choose one and start entering your information. The benefit of using a template is that your site has a professional, pulled together look and takes a lot less work to get started. The downside is that you may see that design or parts of that design elsewhere; you may not be unique. Or, you may not find a template that perfectly suits you.
I use FrontPage 2003 for my websites, but I do not use their templates.
If You Have Your Own Domain And Are Ready To Polish Your Site - I love to visit rabbitry websites that are updated often, provide good information, and have lots of pictures. You probably do, too. So will be the people who visit your website more often when you upgrade your site even further.
I highly recommend a set of free on-line classes for website marketing, search engine optimization, and website development training that I have been taking since July. They are conducted through a Yahoo! group. Go to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEO_Techniques/. The classes are intense and the instructor is tough (definitely not for everyone), but she provides an absolute wealth of information.
You Are Looking For Someone To Develop Your Website For You - I have decided to begin offering affordable website design and development services. Please check out my web site samples. Of course, The Nature Trail Rabbitry and Precious Pet Rabbits are also examples of my work (always works in progress). I should soon have another website up for yet a different rabbitry with a totally different look. Check out the web design section of my website for further information.
A Few Tips - No matter what size or type of website you have, try to follow a few basic rules:
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrial.com/BLOG.html
Don't forget to visit Precious Pet Rabbits at www.pet-rabbit-care-information.com/
¶ 10:14 AM 0 comments links to this post
A good website will let people know:
- What you are (a rabbitry)
- Where you are
- Who you are
- What your breeds are
- How long you have been breeding and a little background
- How to contact you
If You Do Not Have a Rabbitry Website - What are you waiting for? You can put up a basic website or BLOG for free in 30 minutes. The difference between having none and having even a simple one is dramatic. Once you have a website, you can be listed on your national specialty club's member website list (many have them, the Holland Lop Rabbit Specialy Club has a great one). And, ARBA is working on making a list for ARBA members. Wouldn't you like to have a website to list?
Email me (Laurie@thenaturetrail.com) for a few pointers on how to get started if you do not know where to begin.If You Want Something More In Your Website - There are many web hosting providers out there that offer hosting for a small monthly fee. I use two different ones currently.
Web hosting with your own domain name costs just a few dollars per month (roughly $6 to $12). People take your website more seriously when you have your own domain name (free websites tend to come and go, but domain name websites just seem more stable). Plus, it's a lot easier to remember www.thenaturetrail.com/ then "www.member.tripod.xxxx/geocities.com" and so forth.
Many web hosting companies have page development tools built in. There are many with templates available. You just choose one and start entering your information. The benefit of using a template is that your site has a professional, pulled together look and takes a lot less work to get started. The downside is that you may see that design or parts of that design elsewhere; you may not be unique. Or, you may not find a template that perfectly suits you.
I use FrontPage 2003 for my websites, but I do not use their templates.
If You Have Your Own Domain And Are Ready To Polish Your Site - I love to visit rabbitry websites that are updated often, provide good information, and have lots of pictures. You probably do, too. So will be the people who visit your website more often when you upgrade your site even further.
I highly recommend a set of free on-line classes for website marketing, search engine optimization, and website development training that I have been taking since July. They are conducted through a Yahoo! group. Go to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SEO_Techniques/. The classes are intense and the instructor is tough (definitely not for everyone), but she provides an absolute wealth of information.
You Are Looking For Someone To Develop Your Website For You - I have decided to begin offering affordable website design and development services. Please check out my web site samples. Of course, The Nature Trail Rabbitry and Precious Pet Rabbits are also examples of my work (always works in progress). I should soon have another website up for yet a different rabbitry with a totally different look. Check out the web design section of my website for further information.
A Few Tips - No matter what size or type of website you have, try to follow a few basic rules:
- Keep loading time reasonable. You can check the loading time of your web pages at http://www.websiteoptimization.com/services/analyze/ I try to keep my pages to 8 seconds or less at 56K. Make 15 seconds your absolute top limit. If your page takes too long to load, folks will just leave.
- Optimize photos. You can reduce the quality of a photo to 70% with no appreciable loss in quality, but they will load so much faster you will be amazed. Size photos outside of your website rather than just shrinking them down. If you don't have a program that will do this, download the free one I use at http://www.irfanview.com/.
- Don't put too much on one page. Divide subject matter and use as many pages as necessary.
- Don't make your page so wide that you have to scroll from side to side. Up and down is okay, as long as it is reasonable.
- Make it easy to find out how to contact you.
- Do not use an entry page. Just get started with the website right away.
- Have a links page and exchange links with other rabbitries. That's how many people will find you.
- Update something - even if it is small - every week. Give people a reason to come back and visit again.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrial.com/BLOG.html
Don't forget to visit Precious Pet Rabbits at www.pet-rabbit-care-information.com/
¶ 10:14 AM 0 comments links to this post
Wednesday, September 21, 2005
Different Breeds Of Youth Breeders
Three of my children have at least dabbled with rabbits and one currently shows, even if it is on a limited basis. I have friends who are youth breeders and parents of youth breeders. One thing I have learned is that there is no one way to do rabbits as a youth.
One variety of youth breeder is the young breeder. He or she is learning and must depend heavily upon parents for guidance and help. How much can be expected from a youth breeder varies heavily depending on the age, abilities, and experience of the youth breeder.
Oftentimes, I hear comments that the parents are doing too much in these situations. Sometimes I hear that the kids don't seem all that interested. I would caution that looks can be deceiving.
Children vary greatly in their development. We cannot just make a standard, for example, on how much involvement a 7-year old should have. Some are precocious while others are not as mature for their age. Some children may have learning disabilities or physical conditions that we are not aware of. We have no choice but to trust the parents' judgment about how much is right for that child to do.
Young chilren have limited attention spans. It is unreasonable for us to expect a young child to be able to keep his or her attention focused on one thing for hours at a time. Young children need frequent breaks no matter what the activity is (with the apparent exception of video games . . .). It would be faulty logic, in my opinion, to assume that a child who can be distracted from rabbits for a chance to play with friends is not interested in their rabbits. Since we do not know how involved a child is at home with their rabbits, we are not getting the full picture.
Pre-teens are developing longer attention spans and the ability to focus on one activity. But preteens are beginning a fickle stage of their lives. It's a time to explore lots of options and see what fits them. There may be times when their interest lags a little. But rabbits are a long-term commitment and it would be a hasty decision to disband a rabbitry because preteens are so mecurial. Off days and down periods can be overlooked. Perhaps a break from showing is in order. But again, we have to allow parents to determine whether any disinterest or distraction is permanent or just "one of those days."
Teenagers, especially older teens, can easily have all of the knowledge about rabbits that open breeders do. Even more sometimes. They can handle their rabbits independently and do not need to rely on their parents.
Some may feel that this is the only way that a youth breeder should show - totally independently. Certainly there is no question about whether the parents are doing too much in these situations. Teenagers going solo can be very proud of their accomplishments. What they learn by raising and showing their rabbits will benefit them all of their lives, I believe.
But one of the greatest benefits of youth showing rabbits is the quality time spent with their families. I cannot emphasize enough that the people-part of showing rabbits is as important as, or perhaps more important than, the rabbits themselves. I am not sure that I believe that totally independent youth should always be the goal in youth rabbit showing. It certainly does fit some families very well, but it is not the only way to do things right.
Parents-showing-as-youth is, unfortunately, another possibility in youth rabbit showing. I honestly believe that most parents who are doing this are not conscious of it. Perhaps it evolved one day at a time, beginning with getting into rabbits for their children's sake. Subtle changes are the hardest ones to detect. Have you ever been surprised to find that you had gained 10 lbs. or aged 10 years without really noticing it?
I think that all of us parents of youth breeders should conduct a mental checkup periodically. Is my child still interested in rabbits (not considering temporary lapses)? Is my child doing what is appropriate for his or her age? Am I controlling things too much or is it time to back off a little? Am I more into this than my child is?
If your internal checkup flags some problem areas, here are some options to think about:
One variety of youth breeder is the young breeder. He or she is learning and must depend heavily upon parents for guidance and help. How much can be expected from a youth breeder varies heavily depending on the age, abilities, and experience of the youth breeder.
Oftentimes, I hear comments that the parents are doing too much in these situations. Sometimes I hear that the kids don't seem all that interested. I would caution that looks can be deceiving.
Children vary greatly in their development. We cannot just make a standard, for example, on how much involvement a 7-year old should have. Some are precocious while others are not as mature for their age. Some children may have learning disabilities or physical conditions that we are not aware of. We have no choice but to trust the parents' judgment about how much is right for that child to do.
Young chilren have limited attention spans. It is unreasonable for us to expect a young child to be able to keep his or her attention focused on one thing for hours at a time. Young children need frequent breaks no matter what the activity is (with the apparent exception of video games . . .). It would be faulty logic, in my opinion, to assume that a child who can be distracted from rabbits for a chance to play with friends is not interested in their rabbits. Since we do not know how involved a child is at home with their rabbits, we are not getting the full picture.
Pre-teens are developing longer attention spans and the ability to focus on one activity. But preteens are beginning a fickle stage of their lives. It's a time to explore lots of options and see what fits them. There may be times when their interest lags a little. But rabbits are a long-term commitment and it would be a hasty decision to disband a rabbitry because preteens are so mecurial. Off days and down periods can be overlooked. Perhaps a break from showing is in order. But again, we have to allow parents to determine whether any disinterest or distraction is permanent or just "one of those days."
Teenagers, especially older teens, can easily have all of the knowledge about rabbits that open breeders do. Even more sometimes. They can handle their rabbits independently and do not need to rely on their parents.
Some may feel that this is the only way that a youth breeder should show - totally independently. Certainly there is no question about whether the parents are doing too much in these situations. Teenagers going solo can be very proud of their accomplishments. What they learn by raising and showing their rabbits will benefit them all of their lives, I believe.
But one of the greatest benefits of youth showing rabbits is the quality time spent with their families. I cannot emphasize enough that the people-part of showing rabbits is as important as, or perhaps more important than, the rabbits themselves. I am not sure that I believe that totally independent youth should always be the goal in youth rabbit showing. It certainly does fit some families very well, but it is not the only way to do things right.
Parents-showing-as-youth is, unfortunately, another possibility in youth rabbit showing. I honestly believe that most parents who are doing this are not conscious of it. Perhaps it evolved one day at a time, beginning with getting into rabbits for their children's sake. Subtle changes are the hardest ones to detect. Have you ever been surprised to find that you had gained 10 lbs. or aged 10 years without really noticing it?
I think that all of us parents of youth breeders should conduct a mental checkup periodically. Is my child still interested in rabbits (not considering temporary lapses)? Is my child doing what is appropriate for his or her age? Am I controlling things too much or is it time to back off a little? Am I more into this than my child is?
If your internal checkup flags some problem areas, here are some options to think about:
- Adjust the duties and responsibilties so that your youth breeder continues to develop as a breeder; you may have gotten into a rut and not realized it is time to move on to the next step
- Allow your youth breeder to make more decisions, even if you don't agree with them (you always have veto power to prevent your child from being taken advantage of, for example, in rabbit sales)
- Move to open with your youth breeder so that the two of you can operate more as partners (this is an especially good option for preteens and teens who may go through periods where other things take their attention)
- Get your own breed or divide your breeds and begin showing in open while your semi-independent or independent child shows in youth
- Admit that it is your hobby now and move to open alone.
A couple of different friends of mine have told similar stories about their youth. In the stories, the youth want to show a particular rabbit that the parents didn't think should be shown. However, the rabbits did well on the table and the parents were the ones to learn a lesson. It's a little intimidating to allow your child to lead when you have been their leader, teacher, and protector all their lives. But you may find that it is well worth it. Even if you get a little "I told you so!"
Before I wrap this up, I do want to mention that all rabbit breeders are involved with the youth breeding program, whether they realize it or not. Youth watch everything we do and say. Youth are an integral part of our hobby, not a separate group to be shuttled off to the corner. We all have opportunities to support youth whether we write for their breeds, advocate equal treatment in show planning, participate in educational activities, buy and sell rabbits, answer questions, or we interact with them in any number of other ways.
I know that I have chosen a touchy subject to write about. I want to apologize in advance to anyone whose feelings I may have hurt. But I do believe that giving thought to some important aspects of rabbit showing can help clear away misconceptions and help bring ideas (that we really already know) back to the forefront of our minds for a little mental percolation.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
Tuesday, September 20, 2005
In Praise Of Hay
I believe in hay.
If you've ever been to my barn or seen pictures of the inside of it, you know that I don't spare the hay. I like to feed my bunnies a constant supply, not just a handful every other day (which I believe to be the absolute minimum).
The benefits of hay are many.
If you've ever been to my barn or seen pictures of the inside of it, you know that I don't spare the hay. I like to feed my bunnies a constant supply, not just a handful every other day (which I believe to be the absolute minimum).
The benefits of hay are many.
- it helps wear down your rabbits' teeth so that they don't overgrow
- it provides the high fiber that rabbits require for gut motility
- it keeps rabbits from being bored; pulling strands of hay from a rack or a holder is an activity for them
- it gives your rabbit something to eat once the pellets are gone; rabbit digestive systems need to work constantly
- it helps prevent obesity since hay is much lower in calories than pellets or treats
- it helps relieve stress (now don't say you can't relate - ever had a bowl of ice cream because you were upset?)
There are probably other benefits of hay as well. And the down sides are few. Hay is messier than feed. Locating a good supply of hay can be problematic. Storage of hay can be a challenge.
I use orchard grass in my barn. If I could find a good source of reasonably priced Timothy hay, I would use that. I have friends who use coastal Bermuda and love it. You can also use fescue hay. You can even chop down and dry your own overgrown lawn (not that you'd ever have one of those) as long as your lawn is not chemically treated. Do not use alfalafa; the protein level is too high and it can contribute to obesity and digestive system problems associated with too much protein.
Good hay is dry, relatively dust-free, and mold-free. It has a fresh wonderful smell. The best load of hay I've had this year smelled almost good enough for me to eat. Almost. Look for some of the green color of the hay to still be present. I try to avoid hay with too many thorns in it (I think an occasional one is unavoidable). I also do not like to have too many unidentifiable weeds. I'm not so concerned if I notice some dried red clover in the hay.
Although I enjoy getting fine, even textured hay, I'm of two minds about that. First, the fluffy stuff makes wonderful nest box liners. The rabbits usually go ga-ga over it when I can get it exactly like I like. But with the hay that is more coarse, the rabbits eat that, too, even though they may not exactly go ga-ga. And the main thing we want to provide with hay is fiber, and coarse, stemy hay has that.
I once read an opinion that we buy the beautiful hay because it appeals to us, but in reality the coarse hay is better for the rabbits. One problem I do have with coarse, stemy hay is that it seems to be poor quality all around. That is, the bales are more often heavier indicating more moisture in the bale. There are often more thorns and weeds. There's usually more dust and the bales are more likely to contain mold.
Of course it makes sense that those farmers who are producing the best hay are tending their fields better and using better farming technics all around. So when I can get it, I opt for the beautiful hay. When I have to get coarser hay, I still make sure it is mold-free and so forth.
I made my own hay racks from scraps of cage-building materials. Mine are huge. Smaller ones will work as well. My more recent cages have a hay rack between cages to serve double duty (keep rabbits from biting through the wire or spraying through the hay, and, in winter, it keeps the air movement down).
You can also just catch a handful of hay in the cage door to accomplish the same thing as the hay rack. Of course, if you need open the door after that, your hay will fall and that can be a tiny inconvenience, but it's certainly no big deal. My least favorite method of feeding hay is to just put a handful of hay in the cage. More hay is wasted that way and you stand the chance of having rabbits living on moist hay until you can remove it the next day. Unfortunately, it doesn't take long to stain the bottom of a rabbit's foot.
I cannot wrap up all of this hay talk without thanking Tracy Lukeman for keeping after me about the horrible hay I use to use until I finally got the message and began feeding better hay. I reallly like the difference.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
Monday, September 19, 2005
Promoting Showing Rabbits As A Hobby
People enter and leave our hobby for the same three reasons: rabbits, lifestyle, and people. We may be tempted to think that people get into rabbits just because they love rabbits and get out when they have accomplished everything they want to or lose interest in rabbits or their lives cannot accommodate rabbits any longer.
But I think in reality, people get into rabbits because someone shared their enthusiasm with them, showed them the ropes, helped them get started. Think for a second about who helped you get started. I can name several names very easily: Mary & Garrett Justice and Tracy Lukeman, among others. I bet you can name folks quite easily yourself.
People get out of rabbits for various reasons, some rabbit-related and lifestyle-related, but also because of interpersonal strife.
I want to stop here and mention why we care if people get into rabbits and stay in rabbits. Our hobby needs people to stay alive and it needs new people to stay vital.
I use to belong to a church that had a Sunday School class that wasn't that open to new people. They started when they were young marrieds and stayed together for year and year. As they got older, only a few people about the same age were permitted to join (sure, it was technically open to everyone, but that wasn't the reality). Now the average age in the Sunday School class is over 70. How many years will it be until that Sunday School class does not exist at all?
And do you really want to compete with the same three people month after month, year after year, decade after decade? Of course you don't! And it is simply no fun to come to the table and find that you are the only exhibitor or that there are not enough rabbits for a leg (sometimes, even at the BOB level).
So, what can we do? First, you can do what Garrett did to me. Just ask people if they are interested in showing rabbits. I went to him for pets and had never even thought about showing. But he brought up the subject and gave me an ARBA application form with my rabbits. It was several months before the idea had percolated enough in my brain to make me want to find out more. But he had planted the seed and it had taken root.
Next, Mary was kind enough to sit with me and talk with me during my first show. She gave me pointers ("please don't indicate whose rabbits are whose - the judge is not suppose to know"). Keep an eye out for new people. Introduce them around. Make sure that they do not feel alone in a crowd.
I think the most important thing that all of us can do for new people is give them some slack. We get use to the routines of entering rabbits. We sorta know which shows are coming up when. We're plugged into the community and hear discussions about what's going on. We understand the basics of showing rabbits. But all of this is new and VERY overwhelming to a new person.
I saw a young lady, very new to showing, at a recent show who was totally bewildered. Then folks started fussing at her for not getting her rabbits up and lecturing her on how she should have let them know about changes (there had been errors, not her fault, in the paperwork). I thought she was close to tears at one point. Were I she, I think I would have given up rabbits in that very moment. I'm sure she found the rabbit world not the warm, friendly, welcoming place I believe it often is and always should be.
The very same information could have been given to her in a much friendlier, more instructive and helpful way.
So, invite people to join us. Help new people learn the ropes. Give folks some slack, especially when they are new. Teach and encouarge instead of scold and complain. And value the new folks and all the other folks in rabbits. They are the ones who make your hobby worthwhile.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG ¶ 9:18 AM 1 comments links to this post
But I think in reality, people get into rabbits because someone shared their enthusiasm with them, showed them the ropes, helped them get started. Think for a second about who helped you get started. I can name several names very easily: Mary & Garrett Justice and Tracy Lukeman, among others. I bet you can name folks quite easily yourself.
People get out of rabbits for various reasons, some rabbit-related and lifestyle-related, but also because of interpersonal strife.
I want to stop here and mention why we care if people get into rabbits and stay in rabbits. Our hobby needs people to stay alive and it needs new people to stay vital.
I use to belong to a church that had a Sunday School class that wasn't that open to new people. They started when they were young marrieds and stayed together for year and year. As they got older, only a few people about the same age were permitted to join (sure, it was technically open to everyone, but that wasn't the reality). Now the average age in the Sunday School class is over 70. How many years will it be until that Sunday School class does not exist at all?
And do you really want to compete with the same three people month after month, year after year, decade after decade? Of course you don't! And it is simply no fun to come to the table and find that you are the only exhibitor or that there are not enough rabbits for a leg (sometimes, even at the BOB level).
So, what can we do? First, you can do what Garrett did to me. Just ask people if they are interested in showing rabbits. I went to him for pets and had never even thought about showing. But he brought up the subject and gave me an ARBA application form with my rabbits. It was several months before the idea had percolated enough in my brain to make me want to find out more. But he had planted the seed and it had taken root.
Next, Mary was kind enough to sit with me and talk with me during my first show. She gave me pointers ("please don't indicate whose rabbits are whose - the judge is not suppose to know"). Keep an eye out for new people. Introduce them around. Make sure that they do not feel alone in a crowd.
I think the most important thing that all of us can do for new people is give them some slack. We get use to the routines of entering rabbits. We sorta know which shows are coming up when. We're plugged into the community and hear discussions about what's going on. We understand the basics of showing rabbits. But all of this is new and VERY overwhelming to a new person.
I saw a young lady, very new to showing, at a recent show who was totally bewildered. Then folks started fussing at her for not getting her rabbits up and lecturing her on how she should have let them know about changes (there had been errors, not her fault, in the paperwork). I thought she was close to tears at one point. Were I she, I think I would have given up rabbits in that very moment. I'm sure she found the rabbit world not the warm, friendly, welcoming place I believe it often is and always should be.
The very same information could have been given to her in a much friendlier, more instructive and helpful way.
So, invite people to join us. Help new people learn the ropes. Give folks some slack, especially when they are new. Teach and encouarge instead of scold and complain. And value the new folks and all the other folks in rabbits. They are the ones who make your hobby worthwhile.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG ¶ 9:18 AM 1 comments links to this post
Sunday, September 18, 2005
Convention Entries
Today is the day I enter my rabbits for ARBA Convention. I have a few vague ideas about which rabbits to take, but I have a lot of work to do today.
There's much time between now and Convention and a lot can happen. As I reflect upon my choices for Holland Lop Nationals, I realize that I didn't take that time lapse between entries and the show into consideration nearly enough.
For example, a 4 1/2 month old buck named The Nature Trail's Rio wasn't all that impressive (just nice) and had no legs at the time I sent in my Nationals entries. I simply overlooked him. Between then and Nationals, though, he had a BIS and other nice placements. He was BOSV the day after nationals. Obviously, I didn't make a good choice in not entering him.
I have several (many) rabbits in horrible fur right now. Actually, the worse the fur, the more I should consider taking them! They are the ones who are most likely to finish between now and Convention. Some that have open coats may cling onto them until Convention, but I can't be sure. My rabbits who look great right now are the ones I'm most suspicous of. They are probably the ones who will blow their coats about 2 days before Convention. My barn will be a cloud of fur flying on about October 20, I just know it!
One of my strategies this year will be to not just take my personal favorites. I plan to take all of my rabbits with good conformation. Holland lops are like fried chicken - everybody has their favorite piece. I may favor Hollands with certain sets of strengths, but the judges I get may not.
I am also going to try not to underestimate my rabbits. I do believe my nicest rabbits have a chance to at least place in the upper third and I can be satisfied with that. I will be thrilled if I can get one rabbit into the top ten.
Another strategy is to make sure I enter at least one rabbit for every class. Even though I may not know which solid junior buck will be strongest nearer Convention, I'm hoping that at least one of my 9 contenders will be good enough to take. I can change the ear number at the last minute, but I can't add a rabbit from an entirely different class.
I will be checking today to see if there might be more than one rabbit in each class. I know I'm going to enter 3 broken senior bucks, for example. I know which three I hope will be in shape by then, but I will be thrilled if any three of my herd bucks are able to go.
I will also be entering all of my sale rabbits. They are all presales and will be scratched. If you've purchased rabbits from me at a national show before, you know I'm a stickler about that.
If you haven't entered your Convention rabbits today, happy decision-making. I know exactly how you feel!
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 10:48 AM 0 comments links to this post
There's much time between now and Convention and a lot can happen. As I reflect upon my choices for Holland Lop Nationals, I realize that I didn't take that time lapse between entries and the show into consideration nearly enough.
For example, a 4 1/2 month old buck named The Nature Trail's Rio wasn't all that impressive (just nice) and had no legs at the time I sent in my Nationals entries. I simply overlooked him. Between then and Nationals, though, he had a BIS and other nice placements. He was BOSV the day after nationals. Obviously, I didn't make a good choice in not entering him.
I have several (many) rabbits in horrible fur right now. Actually, the worse the fur, the more I should consider taking them! They are the ones who are most likely to finish between now and Convention. Some that have open coats may cling onto them until Convention, but I can't be sure. My rabbits who look great right now are the ones I'm most suspicous of. They are probably the ones who will blow their coats about 2 days before Convention. My barn will be a cloud of fur flying on about October 20, I just know it!
One of my strategies this year will be to not just take my personal favorites. I plan to take all of my rabbits with good conformation. Holland lops are like fried chicken - everybody has their favorite piece. I may favor Hollands with certain sets of strengths, but the judges I get may not.
I am also going to try not to underestimate my rabbits. I do believe my nicest rabbits have a chance to at least place in the upper third and I can be satisfied with that. I will be thrilled if I can get one rabbit into the top ten.
Another strategy is to make sure I enter at least one rabbit for every class. Even though I may not know which solid junior buck will be strongest nearer Convention, I'm hoping that at least one of my 9 contenders will be good enough to take. I can change the ear number at the last minute, but I can't add a rabbit from an entirely different class.
I will be checking today to see if there might be more than one rabbit in each class. I know I'm going to enter 3 broken senior bucks, for example. I know which three I hope will be in shape by then, but I will be thrilled if any three of my herd bucks are able to go.
I will also be entering all of my sale rabbits. They are all presales and will be scratched. If you've purchased rabbits from me at a national show before, you know I'm a stickler about that.
If you haven't entered your Convention rabbits today, happy decision-making. I know exactly how you feel!
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 10:48 AM 0 comments links to this post
Saturday, September 17, 2005
Sandhills Rabbit Fanciers Show, Greensboro, NC, September 17, 2005
I had a lot of fun at the show today. It was a long day and I'm tired, but I got home at a reasonable hour and no motel bill was involved. So that was very nice.
In show A, Camelot's Merlin was BOV. Eleven of the 12 rabbits I showed, placed. And a "The Nature Trail's" rabbit shown by a friend knocked my 12th rabbit just out of placement range. Oh well. If you have to be beaten, it's nice to know it's by one of your own homegrown bunnies.
In show B, The Nature Trail's Brook, who kindled just a week ago, was BOS. The Nature Trail's Purdy was BOSV for brokens. All 12 rabbits placed.
In show C, Camelot's Merlin was again BOV. Eleven of the 12 rabbits I showed, placed.
Congratulations to Lukeman & Buchenauer for their 3 BOB's and 2 BOS wins. I also heard "Holland Lop" called at the BIS table a couple of times, but I'm not sure whether it was BRIS or what. It was sure to be something good, though.
The best part of the day was going out for a bite to eat after the show with friends. I asked my daughter Anna what she liked most about the day and she said, "Being with my friends." I agree.
I also enjoyed being assistant show secretary for the very first time. Now that I see how hectic things can be during check-in, I will be sure to be patient and pleasant when I check my rabbits in at future shows!
I'll be showing in Shelby, NC, and Columbia, SC, next weekend
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 9:04 PM 0 comments links to this post
In show A, Camelot's Merlin was BOV. Eleven of the 12 rabbits I showed, placed. And a "The Nature Trail's" rabbit shown by a friend knocked my 12th rabbit just out of placement range. Oh well. If you have to be beaten, it's nice to know it's by one of your own homegrown bunnies.
In show B, The Nature Trail's Brook, who kindled just a week ago, was BOS. The Nature Trail's Purdy was BOSV for brokens. All 12 rabbits placed.
In show C, Camelot's Merlin was again BOV. Eleven of the 12 rabbits I showed, placed.
Congratulations to Lukeman & Buchenauer for their 3 BOB's and 2 BOS wins. I also heard "Holland Lop" called at the BIS table a couple of times, but I'm not sure whether it was BRIS or what. It was sure to be something good, though.
The best part of the day was going out for a bite to eat after the show with friends. I asked my daughter Anna what she liked most about the day and she said, "Being with my friends." I agree.
I also enjoyed being assistant show secretary for the very first time. Now that I see how hectic things can be during check-in, I will be sure to be patient and pleasant when I check my rabbits in at future shows!
I'll be showing in Shelby, NC, and Columbia, SC, next weekend
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 9:04 PM 0 comments links to this post
Friday, September 16, 2005
Fostering
I foster kits to different dams all of the time. There are several different reasons why I will foster, and I'll talk about that more, but first, let me tell you how I do it.
I just pick up a kit and put it into another nest box.
That's it. With newborns, I've never had a problem just slipping them into the nest I want them to be in. There's no need for fanfare or big preparations.
There are a few details, of course. It is imperative that you mark kits if the coat color or breed is not enough to help you tell them apart. I use an unnatural color permanent marker in the ear. If I can see just a speck of lime green in a kit's ear, then I know it's the marked one. I use to use black. But a tiny speck of black might not tell me much and it can't always be seen under the fur as it grows in.
Some breeders tattoo a dot in an ear. That has the distinct advantage of not needing remarking every other day. Coloring the ear with a permanent marker must be touched up every other day or it may fade. Some color will ususally last for weeks, but do not count on it. Touch up the mark.
There may be any number of great ways to mark kits. It's just important that you do so. If you can't determine which kit is which, then you turn your pedigreed rabbits into pets.
And the mark is no good if you don't record which litter is the marked litter. If you need to mix three litters, then just two use different colors. Magenta is another good choice.
I am in the process of gradually moving May's litter over to Molasses. Both were first-timers, so I was anxious to see how they would do. There's a total of 6 viable kits. I really want to free up May to get in shape for Convention, but I don't want to take any risk whatsoever with the kits. I've been watching their progress carefully and moving over one kit at a time, to make sure that Molasses has a milk supply to keep up and is diligent about taking care of the kits. Wouldn't you know that May is the one with milk to spare? It's always the way, isn't it. Molasses is doing a fine job, though.
If Molasses had had previous litters and I had been comfortable with her track record, I would have moved them all over on day one.
I have fostered kits as late as 19 days old. When I had a dying doe, I had absolutely no choice. I removed the foster mother from the cage and put the fostered kits in with hers for a couple of hours. I put a small dab of Vicks above her nose to inhibit her ability to smell. Other breeders use vanilla extract.
When I put her back in with the kits, she was obviously concerned that something was wrong. She checked the kits (it was cold weather, so they were still in a nest box for a couple more days). She glared at me, I swear. She repeated that and nosed around for about 15 minutes. And then, as if she decided that she couldn't figure out what was wrong, she just hopped in and started nursing.
Now I have already alluded to two reasons to foster. One, you want to free up a doe, perhaps to sell her, or get her into shape to show, or to rebreed her more quickly.
Two, you may need to foster because the orginal dam is ill, not caring for the kits, or did not produce milk. (Take care that you understand a rabbit's normal routine for caring for kits before you determine that she is not doing so - rabbits only feed their young once, perhaps twice, per day.)
Three, you do not want to have a litter of one kit. In cold weather, the kit is not able to keep warm. Also, it runs a huge risk of being overfed, which can affect its leg development. Likewise, you may not want a litter of just two kits.
Four, you do not want to have an overly large litter. Although some does can handle 7 or 8 kits, I prefer litters of 3 to 5, with 4 being my personal favorite. Evening out kits will provide enough warmth and milk for all, without stressing out or dragging down a doe. And, it helps kits be neither over- nor under-fed.
Five, you want to help out a doe that has had a dead litter. I don't have any proof of this, but it does seem to help a doe get started with live litters if she has the opportunity to nurse a litter. Even if it's not true, why not have the non-producing doe nursing and let the producing doe get on with another litter? And if it does help the doe to have a live litter next time, then you are ahead of the game.
Six, you don't want to allow an older doe too much time between litters. Older does are running out of time. Perhaps you want to get more kits from her before she quits producing. Or, you are keeping her in production to extend her productive years (months). Either way, I often foster kits from valuable older does in an attempt to get an extra litter or two from her.
To foster kits to a doe that you are unsure of, you may choose to tandem nurse them for a few days until you are sure that the doe's milk is ample and her mothering skills are intact. Just remove the nest box and raise the babies on a shelf. Give the box to one doe in the morning and the other doe in the evening. Once you are sure that the foster mother will work out, you can give her the box full-time or contiue to raise them on the shelf, only returning them just to the foster mother.
If you need to foster more kits than a doe would normally be able to handle, you may want to split the litter. I had a doe with 7 kits who suddenly had to take on 5 more because the second doe did not produce any milk whatsoever. I raised both litters on the shelf and gave her one litter in the morning and the other litter in the evening. She did this successfully for several days until other does delivered their litters and were able to take some of the kits from her.
Don't be afraid to foster between breeds. That's no problem. Some breeds are even known for having ample supplies of milk or having good mothering abilities.
Fostering is but one of the tools you have to help you run your rabbitry and optimize your breeding program. If you having tried it before, be brave and go for it. I think you will like the results.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 8:48 AM 0 comments links to this post
I just pick up a kit and put it into another nest box.
That's it. With newborns, I've never had a problem just slipping them into the nest I want them to be in. There's no need for fanfare or big preparations.
There are a few details, of course. It is imperative that you mark kits if the coat color or breed is not enough to help you tell them apart. I use an unnatural color permanent marker in the ear. If I can see just a speck of lime green in a kit's ear, then I know it's the marked one. I use to use black. But a tiny speck of black might not tell me much and it can't always be seen under the fur as it grows in.
Some breeders tattoo a dot in an ear. That has the distinct advantage of not needing remarking every other day. Coloring the ear with a permanent marker must be touched up every other day or it may fade. Some color will ususally last for weeks, but do not count on it. Touch up the mark.
There may be any number of great ways to mark kits. It's just important that you do so. If you can't determine which kit is which, then you turn your pedigreed rabbits into pets.
And the mark is no good if you don't record which litter is the marked litter. If you need to mix three litters, then just two use different colors. Magenta is another good choice.
I am in the process of gradually moving May's litter over to Molasses. Both were first-timers, so I was anxious to see how they would do. There's a total of 6 viable kits. I really want to free up May to get in shape for Convention, but I don't want to take any risk whatsoever with the kits. I've been watching their progress carefully and moving over one kit at a time, to make sure that Molasses has a milk supply to keep up and is diligent about taking care of the kits. Wouldn't you know that May is the one with milk to spare? It's always the way, isn't it. Molasses is doing a fine job, though.
If Molasses had had previous litters and I had been comfortable with her track record, I would have moved them all over on day one.
I have fostered kits as late as 19 days old. When I had a dying doe, I had absolutely no choice. I removed the foster mother from the cage and put the fostered kits in with hers for a couple of hours. I put a small dab of Vicks above her nose to inhibit her ability to smell. Other breeders use vanilla extract.
When I put her back in with the kits, she was obviously concerned that something was wrong. She checked the kits (it was cold weather, so they were still in a nest box for a couple more days). She glared at me, I swear. She repeated that and nosed around for about 15 minutes. And then, as if she decided that she couldn't figure out what was wrong, she just hopped in and started nursing.
Now I have already alluded to two reasons to foster. One, you want to free up a doe, perhaps to sell her, or get her into shape to show, or to rebreed her more quickly.
Two, you may need to foster because the orginal dam is ill, not caring for the kits, or did not produce milk. (Take care that you understand a rabbit's normal routine for caring for kits before you determine that she is not doing so - rabbits only feed their young once, perhaps twice, per day.)
Three, you do not want to have a litter of one kit. In cold weather, the kit is not able to keep warm. Also, it runs a huge risk of being overfed, which can affect its leg development. Likewise, you may not want a litter of just two kits.
Four, you do not want to have an overly large litter. Although some does can handle 7 or 8 kits, I prefer litters of 3 to 5, with 4 being my personal favorite. Evening out kits will provide enough warmth and milk for all, without stressing out or dragging down a doe. And, it helps kits be neither over- nor under-fed.
Five, you want to help out a doe that has had a dead litter. I don't have any proof of this, but it does seem to help a doe get started with live litters if she has the opportunity to nurse a litter. Even if it's not true, why not have the non-producing doe nursing and let the producing doe get on with another litter? And if it does help the doe to have a live litter next time, then you are ahead of the game.
Six, you don't want to allow an older doe too much time between litters. Older does are running out of time. Perhaps you want to get more kits from her before she quits producing. Or, you are keeping her in production to extend her productive years (months). Either way, I often foster kits from valuable older does in an attempt to get an extra litter or two from her.
To foster kits to a doe that you are unsure of, you may choose to tandem nurse them for a few days until you are sure that the doe's milk is ample and her mothering skills are intact. Just remove the nest box and raise the babies on a shelf. Give the box to one doe in the morning and the other doe in the evening. Once you are sure that the foster mother will work out, you can give her the box full-time or contiue to raise them on the shelf, only returning them just to the foster mother.
If you need to foster more kits than a doe would normally be able to handle, you may want to split the litter. I had a doe with 7 kits who suddenly had to take on 5 more because the second doe did not produce any milk whatsoever. I raised both litters on the shelf and gave her one litter in the morning and the other litter in the evening. She did this successfully for several days until other does delivered their litters and were able to take some of the kits from her.
Don't be afraid to foster between breeds. That's no problem. Some breeds are even known for having ample supplies of milk or having good mothering abilities.
Fostering is but one of the tools you have to help you run your rabbitry and optimize your breeding program. If you having tried it before, be brave and go for it. I think you will like the results.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 8:48 AM 0 comments links to this post
Thursday, September 15, 2005
Ramrod
Ramrods are very good things. In my part of the country, Georgia, South Carolina, Tennesee, North Carolina and Virginia, they are not often seen. I am familiar with them from national shows. I understand that they are more common in other parts of the nation. If you live in one of those parts, you may want to skip this BLOG entry. For the rest, please read on to find out more about ramrods.
The job of the ramrod is to keep things moving smoothly on the table. The ramrod is neither judge nor writer (table secretary). The ramrod works with the judge to make sure that rabbits are put where the judge wants them to go. But it is the ramrods job to look ahead and see which classes need to be called when. And then make the calls.
Don't wait for the judge to tell you what to do. Free the judge up to judge! Don't make the judge stand around long waiting for rabbits to come up to the table. Anticipate the next class and keep the ball rolling.
The ramrod will consult with the writer to determine how many rabbits are coming up in the next class. By looking at the available juding coops available, the ramrod can let the judge know whether there is space for all of the rabbits or whether they will need to be rotated in.
When the current class is nearly finished, the ramrod will look ahead to see when the next class can be called. The ramrod makes the calls. If a PA system is available, the ramrod may make arrangements for classes to be called or to call for missing rabbits (e.g., "Molly, ask Mike to make a final call announcement over the PA for Holland Lops, broken junior does").
Where there are few rabbits compared to the number of judging coops available, the ramrod may called the following class as well, helping exhibitors get their rabbits into the correct holes to keep things straight.
The ramrod then lets the judge know which rabbits are where. "The solid senior does are in the first ten holes, and the solid junior bucks are in the last twelve." The goal is to have the next class ready when the judge finished up the prior class.
The ramrod should be sensitive to the way that the judge likes to do things. By talking together, you can find out if the judge wants class winners sent back with the exhibitors to be called back later (sometimes with limited space, this is the best option). Other times, the judge may have coops in the back for storing winners until they are needed for further judging. Sometimes a judge likes to line up the class winners in the end judging coops right on the judging table. Just ask, "Where are you going to put the class winners? I don't want to put rabbits in your way."
If there are more rabbits than juding coops, the ramrod can find out from the judge whether the additional rabbits should be held or put into judging coops behind or beside the judge. Again, it is important to check with the judge and work closely together.
Your ramrod duties will also relieve some of the pressure from the writer as well. Generally, writers are trying to wrap up documenting the top placements just at the time that new rabbits need to be called to the table. By separating the ramrod duties from the writing duties, you can each concentrate on what you are doing without feeling pulled in two directions.
You do want to work with the writer, however. You will need to get numbers of the rabbits for the classes and also get the writer's help locate missing rabbits (the writer can narrow down the possibilities of who to look for). Also, you will need the writer's help if more rabbits show up than you you expected.
It is definitely the exhibitor's job to pay attention and get their rabbits up to the table in a timely manner, but people do go to the bathroom, have other breeds to exhibit, or have other duties to attend to, so it is very helpful to do just a little investigating to find missing rabbits.
I often find that the missing rabbit is my own, so make sure you have engaged some help to get your own rabbits on the table while you volunteer to ramrod or write.
So, if you are going to a show this weekend, volunteer to be a ramrod. You will help things go more smoothly and help the show wrap up in a reasonable time. And, by staying involved, you will never be bored at a show and will learn more about your breed.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 11:37 AM 0 comments links to this post
The job of the ramrod is to keep things moving smoothly on the table. The ramrod is neither judge nor writer (table secretary). The ramrod works with the judge to make sure that rabbits are put where the judge wants them to go. But it is the ramrods job to look ahead and see which classes need to be called when. And then make the calls.
Don't wait for the judge to tell you what to do. Free the judge up to judge! Don't make the judge stand around long waiting for rabbits to come up to the table. Anticipate the next class and keep the ball rolling.
The ramrod will consult with the writer to determine how many rabbits are coming up in the next class. By looking at the available juding coops available, the ramrod can let the judge know whether there is space for all of the rabbits or whether they will need to be rotated in.
When the current class is nearly finished, the ramrod will look ahead to see when the next class can be called. The ramrod makes the calls. If a PA system is available, the ramrod may make arrangements for classes to be called or to call for missing rabbits (e.g., "Molly, ask Mike to make a final call announcement over the PA for Holland Lops, broken junior does").
Where there are few rabbits compared to the number of judging coops available, the ramrod may called the following class as well, helping exhibitors get their rabbits into the correct holes to keep things straight.
The ramrod then lets the judge know which rabbits are where. "The solid senior does are in the first ten holes, and the solid junior bucks are in the last twelve." The goal is to have the next class ready when the judge finished up the prior class.
The ramrod should be sensitive to the way that the judge likes to do things. By talking together, you can find out if the judge wants class winners sent back with the exhibitors to be called back later (sometimes with limited space, this is the best option). Other times, the judge may have coops in the back for storing winners until they are needed for further judging. Sometimes a judge likes to line up the class winners in the end judging coops right on the judging table. Just ask, "Where are you going to put the class winners? I don't want to put rabbits in your way."
If there are more rabbits than juding coops, the ramrod can find out from the judge whether the additional rabbits should be held or put into judging coops behind or beside the judge. Again, it is important to check with the judge and work closely together.
Your ramrod duties will also relieve some of the pressure from the writer as well. Generally, writers are trying to wrap up documenting the top placements just at the time that new rabbits need to be called to the table. By separating the ramrod duties from the writing duties, you can each concentrate on what you are doing without feeling pulled in two directions.
You do want to work with the writer, however. You will need to get numbers of the rabbits for the classes and also get the writer's help locate missing rabbits (the writer can narrow down the possibilities of who to look for). Also, you will need the writer's help if more rabbits show up than you you expected.
It is definitely the exhibitor's job to pay attention and get their rabbits up to the table in a timely manner, but people do go to the bathroom, have other breeds to exhibit, or have other duties to attend to, so it is very helpful to do just a little investigating to find missing rabbits.
I often find that the missing rabbit is my own, so make sure you have engaged some help to get your own rabbits on the table while you volunteer to ramrod or write.
So, if you are going to a show this weekend, volunteer to be a ramrod. You will help things go more smoothly and help the show wrap up in a reasonable time. And, by staying involved, you will never be bored at a show and will learn more about your breed.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 11:37 AM 0 comments links to this post
Wednesday, September 14, 2005
I'm All Ears
Holland Lop ears account for just 10 points. So it is right that we concentrate more on body (32 points) and head (24 points) when we first begin developing our herds. There's more bang for your effort there. But once you see your heads and bodies shaping us, it's time for more fine tuning. Perhaps you will look to the ears next.
Ears and crowns work hand-in-hand, and together, they account for 18 points. Sure, it's true that you can have an awesome crown and have wimpy ears. But you are not likely to have a poor crown without some negative effect on the ears. That is, if the crown is tight (narrow from side to side), then you will most likely see ear control. If the crown is narrow from front to back, you will see folding or at least a bell shape to the upper portion of the ear. If the crown is slipped (placed further back on the skull than it should be), then the ears can sweep forward or backward rather than hang straight down as they should.
Here's a tip on viewing pictures of Holland Lops: if you can't see the ears well in the front view, the crown is probably severely slipped. When the crown and ears are properly placed, the crown and ears can all be seen from the front in a continuous line from the tip of one ear up, over the crown and down to the tip of the second ear.
While it's true that you sometimes have to exercise a little compromise and give-n-take when you decide which rabbits to keep, it's still important to have the ideal in mind.
I want to avoid rabbits with really paper-thin ears. I've kept some with medium-thick ears. But really thick, well-furred ears are simply beautiful. Face it, those ears are right up there in front of you, so if they are problematic, they are simply not going to be overlooked. They have a huge potential to detract from the overall appearance of your rabbit.
Ditto about creases in the ears. Sure, crown can be fixed pretty easily and you may keep some crown problems to fix in the next generation, if they have other strengths you really need in your herd. But your finished product rabbits will not have creases in their ears. As a side note, pictures of rabbits with creases in their ears seem to magnify the problem.
Belled ears are a little harder to identify, at least for me. Pay a lot of attention to the top portion of Holland Lop ears at the next few shows and firmly fix in your mind the look of ears that are wide open at the top versus those that are belled (belled ears are domed rather than flat; they are fairly common). If you still can't figure it out, ask a judge to show you when he or she comments on the ears.
Narrow ears are very distracting and tend to make the ears look even longer than they are. Short fat ears are the ticket. You may have to cull very hard to get short fat ears. Long, skinny ears seem to pop up out of nowhere too often. I know they do in my herd and, from the for sale rabbits I see around, they must in others', too.
I think that ear problems vary in severity in different parts of the country and in different lines. You may want to bring in rabbits from specific lines to help with your short, fat, ear goals
Rounded ear tips are lovely on a Holland. I have to admit that I will accept other shapes if everything else about the rabbit is good. But I do especially like really round ear tips.
Stephen Rausch, a judge I've had a few times while showing in Georgia and South Carolina, has been very good to point out when Holland ears actually start just behind the eye as they should. Most, it seems, start somewhere above, and so it is worth mentioning when the ears actually start right behind the eye. I'm not talking about not being slipped here (although ears should hang straight down just behind the eye to judge whether the crown is slipped), I'm talking about where the ears sprouts out from the head.
Ears that originate above the eye and hang down straight behind the eye indicate that the crown is not slipped. Ears that originate just behind the eye and hang from there indicate that the crown is very wide, as it should be.
Holland Lop ears should hang down no more than 1" below the jaw line and should be in proportion to the rabbit. I think that means that when you have a gargantuan head and beefy body, you can get away with a little more ear length. After all, the huge head allows more length just to get to the bottom of the jaw in the first place. You've seen some bruisers with ears that, on another rabbit would be long, but on that rabbit seemed to look just fine.
I've actually seen one or two rabbits that had such tiny ears with huge heads and bodies that they looked a bit funny. I'd certainly opt for smaller ears over ears that are too long, but balance is the ticket, as it really is in all aspects of the Holland Lop.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 9:15 AM 0 comments links to this post
Ears and crowns work hand-in-hand, and together, they account for 18 points. Sure, it's true that you can have an awesome crown and have wimpy ears. But you are not likely to have a poor crown without some negative effect on the ears. That is, if the crown is tight (narrow from side to side), then you will most likely see ear control. If the crown is narrow from front to back, you will see folding or at least a bell shape to the upper portion of the ear. If the crown is slipped (placed further back on the skull than it should be), then the ears can sweep forward or backward rather than hang straight down as they should.
Here's a tip on viewing pictures of Holland Lops: if you can't see the ears well in the front view, the crown is probably severely slipped. When the crown and ears are properly placed, the crown and ears can all be seen from the front in a continuous line from the tip of one ear up, over the crown and down to the tip of the second ear.
While it's true that you sometimes have to exercise a little compromise and give-n-take when you decide which rabbits to keep, it's still important to have the ideal in mind.
I want to avoid rabbits with really paper-thin ears. I've kept some with medium-thick ears. But really thick, well-furred ears are simply beautiful. Face it, those ears are right up there in front of you, so if they are problematic, they are simply not going to be overlooked. They have a huge potential to detract from the overall appearance of your rabbit.
Ditto about creases in the ears. Sure, crown can be fixed pretty easily and you may keep some crown problems to fix in the next generation, if they have other strengths you really need in your herd. But your finished product rabbits will not have creases in their ears. As a side note, pictures of rabbits with creases in their ears seem to magnify the problem.
Belled ears are a little harder to identify, at least for me. Pay a lot of attention to the top portion of Holland Lop ears at the next few shows and firmly fix in your mind the look of ears that are wide open at the top versus those that are belled (belled ears are domed rather than flat; they are fairly common). If you still can't figure it out, ask a judge to show you when he or she comments on the ears.
Narrow ears are very distracting and tend to make the ears look even longer than they are. Short fat ears are the ticket. You may have to cull very hard to get short fat ears. Long, skinny ears seem to pop up out of nowhere too often. I know they do in my herd and, from the for sale rabbits I see around, they must in others', too.
I think that ear problems vary in severity in different parts of the country and in different lines. You may want to bring in rabbits from specific lines to help with your short, fat, ear goals
Rounded ear tips are lovely on a Holland. I have to admit that I will accept other shapes if everything else about the rabbit is good. But I do especially like really round ear tips.
Stephen Rausch, a judge I've had a few times while showing in Georgia and South Carolina, has been very good to point out when Holland ears actually start just behind the eye as they should. Most, it seems, start somewhere above, and so it is worth mentioning when the ears actually start right behind the eye. I'm not talking about not being slipped here (although ears should hang straight down just behind the eye to judge whether the crown is slipped), I'm talking about where the ears sprouts out from the head.
Ears that originate above the eye and hang down straight behind the eye indicate that the crown is not slipped. Ears that originate just behind the eye and hang from there indicate that the crown is very wide, as it should be.
Holland Lop ears should hang down no more than 1" below the jaw line and should be in proportion to the rabbit. I think that means that when you have a gargantuan head and beefy body, you can get away with a little more ear length. After all, the huge head allows more length just to get to the bottom of the jaw in the first place. You've seen some bruisers with ears that, on another rabbit would be long, but on that rabbit seemed to look just fine.
I've actually seen one or two rabbits that had such tiny ears with huge heads and bodies that they looked a bit funny. I'd certainly opt for smaller ears over ears that are too long, but balance is the ticket, as it really is in all aspects of the Holland Lop.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 9:15 AM 0 comments links to this post
Tuesday, September 13, 2005
Family Affair
In our busy, impersonal world, it is wonderful to have a place to go that is wholesome, family-oriented, and caring. I'm talking about rabbit shows and the rabbit community, or course.
It's wonderful to see the posts going back and forth concerning the safety of our breeder friends who were in the path of Katrina. I'm touched to see the concern for personal losses of any kind in the rabbit world. I love to see rabbit people celebrating with other rabbit people - whether they live across town or across the country.
This kind of community is worth protecting. We just don't have too much of it these days.
I was at a fair last night. I went to attend a meeting of the NCRBA, which is working on a fabulous quad show for the spring. We met at the rabbit educational display at the fair in Greensboro, NC. My husband took the kids to the fair while I attended the meeting.
After the meeting, I joined my family at the fair. It was then that I saw a family with a small child attempt to leave the fair by a door that had just been closed for the night. When he was told that the only open gate was to his right, he let out a string of expletives that I could not repeat here. It reminded me of how easy it is to spoil a wholesome atmosphere.
Here are some reminders for all of us (including me) on how we can protect the wonderful privilege we have to enjoy rabbit shows:
Use language appropriate for all ages. I am personally prone to letting out a colorful phrase that might be appropriate for most adults, but I never know who is standing behind me listening. I need to remember that.
Take the time to thank judges, show superintendents, and show secretaries. It adds to the type of environment we want to promote and is a wonderful example to the youth who will be showing with us in open before you know it.
Congratulate winners wholeheartedly. I am guilty of being tired and ready to go at the end of a show. I've missed far too many opportunities to congratulate the winners and share in just a few moments of joy with them. Avoid any comment that would take the luster off of the moment. Now is not the time to ask whether it was a bought rabbit or to mention that the judge doesn't know the breed. And do I really need to say that disagreeing with the win is a no-no?
Seek positive solutions to disagreements and encourage the same in others. Avoid aggravating sensitive situations and be willing to put unpleasant experiences behind you. Easier said than done, I know.
Take time for youth. You will get more out of it than you give. It is not only an investment in the bunny world, but it is an investment in our society as a whole. I truly believe that kids and families who are involved with activities such as raising and showing bunnies are focused on the positive and heading in the right direction. That's something our country could use more of.
Look for ways to help others at the show. Do you see someone with three bunnies in their arms trying to open a coop? Has someone gone to the restroom just as their class was called? Is a breeder trying to choke down lunch and get rabbits to the table? Rabbit folks are generally very good about this sort of thing, but there's always room for improvement.
Treat others courteously, including members of your own family. Witnessing rudeness between other people can make you almost as uncomfortable as being the object of the rudeness yourself.
I love going to rabbit shows and I hope you do, too. People often comment that I am always smiling at rabbit shows. It's true and it's because I just love being there. It's one of the most wonderful places on earth to be. And by taking just a little care not to spoil it, it can be the absolute best.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetraill.com/blog/BLOG
Don't forget to check out my new website Precious Pet Rabbits!
¶ 9:17 AM 2 comments links to this post
It's wonderful to see the posts going back and forth concerning the safety of our breeder friends who were in the path of Katrina. I'm touched to see the concern for personal losses of any kind in the rabbit world. I love to see rabbit people celebrating with other rabbit people - whether they live across town or across the country.
This kind of community is worth protecting. We just don't have too much of it these days.
I was at a fair last night. I went to attend a meeting of the NCRBA, which is working on a fabulous quad show for the spring. We met at the rabbit educational display at the fair in Greensboro, NC. My husband took the kids to the fair while I attended the meeting.
After the meeting, I joined my family at the fair. It was then that I saw a family with a small child attempt to leave the fair by a door that had just been closed for the night. When he was told that the only open gate was to his right, he let out a string of expletives that I could not repeat here. It reminded me of how easy it is to spoil a wholesome atmosphere.
Here are some reminders for all of us (including me) on how we can protect the wonderful privilege we have to enjoy rabbit shows:
Use language appropriate for all ages. I am personally prone to letting out a colorful phrase that might be appropriate for most adults, but I never know who is standing behind me listening. I need to remember that.
Take the time to thank judges, show superintendents, and show secretaries. It adds to the type of environment we want to promote and is a wonderful example to the youth who will be showing with us in open before you know it.
Congratulate winners wholeheartedly. I am guilty of being tired and ready to go at the end of a show. I've missed far too many opportunities to congratulate the winners and share in just a few moments of joy with them. Avoid any comment that would take the luster off of the moment. Now is not the time to ask whether it was a bought rabbit or to mention that the judge doesn't know the breed. And do I really need to say that disagreeing with the win is a no-no?
Seek positive solutions to disagreements and encourage the same in others. Avoid aggravating sensitive situations and be willing to put unpleasant experiences behind you. Easier said than done, I know.
Take time for youth. You will get more out of it than you give. It is not only an investment in the bunny world, but it is an investment in our society as a whole. I truly believe that kids and families who are involved with activities such as raising and showing bunnies are focused on the positive and heading in the right direction. That's something our country could use more of.
Look for ways to help others at the show. Do you see someone with three bunnies in their arms trying to open a coop? Has someone gone to the restroom just as their class was called? Is a breeder trying to choke down lunch and get rabbits to the table? Rabbit folks are generally very good about this sort of thing, but there's always room for improvement.
Treat others courteously, including members of your own family. Witnessing rudeness between other people can make you almost as uncomfortable as being the object of the rudeness yourself.
I love going to rabbit shows and I hope you do, too. People often comment that I am always smiling at rabbit shows. It's true and it's because I just love being there. It's one of the most wonderful places on earth to be. And by taking just a little care not to spoil it, it can be the absolute best.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetraill.com/blog/BLOG
Don't forget to check out my new website Precious Pet Rabbits!
¶ 9:17 AM 2 comments links to this post
Monday, September 12, 2005
Promoting Pet Sales
I believe that ARBA members who show their rabbits are actively breeding for the best quality rabbits possible. Each breeding is done in the hopes of producing a future grand champion. Simply put, I believe that they (we) are the best source for pet rabbits.
There are, of course, exceptions to every rule, but I'll put my money on serious hobbyists who are ARBA members any day.
If you read about pet rabbit care on the internet, you will quickly get the feeling that the only pets you should have are rescue rabbits from a shelter. You will get the feeling that the only way that a rabbit can be happy is to have the run of your household. I do not agree with these ideas. And I think it is time that another point of view is heard.
Of course, reality is that ARBA members are mostly concerned with producing show rabbits. We've put our energies into that as we well should. But I would now like to get the word out to the general public. It's been a "best kept secret" for too long.
By letting folks know about our pet rabbits, we enter into the classic win-win situation. We benefit by finding good homes for our pet rabbits. I don't know a breeder that doesn't need to free up cage space in order to continue their breeding program. And new pet owners benefit by having pets from grand champion stock, pets that were carefully bred to enhance their characteristics, including health and personality.
Pet buyers also benefit from purchasing rabbits from people who can actually answer their questions, sex their rabbit, and tell them what to expect in terms of size and temperment.
My new website Precious Pet Rabbits is a place to begin telling the public about our wonderful rabbits. If you have a rabbitry website and have not yet exchanged links with me, please do! Just go to the How To Link page and follow the simple directions.
I am also looking for a breeder from each breed to be a guest writer for a page on that website. I want to provide more indepth information from a person who is passionate about the breed. If you would be willing to write such an article, please let me know. I would include a short bio of you at the bottom of the article and include links to your website and/or your favorite rabbit club or organization. Take this opportunity to promote your rabbit breed as a great pet.
If you don't feel that you are a strong writer, don't worry. I can always help with the writing part, but you can provide unique information that other people would enjoy reading.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 11:29 AM 0 comments links to this post
There are, of course, exceptions to every rule, but I'll put my money on serious hobbyists who are ARBA members any day.
If you read about pet rabbit care on the internet, you will quickly get the feeling that the only pets you should have are rescue rabbits from a shelter. You will get the feeling that the only way that a rabbit can be happy is to have the run of your household. I do not agree with these ideas. And I think it is time that another point of view is heard.
Of course, reality is that ARBA members are mostly concerned with producing show rabbits. We've put our energies into that as we well should. But I would now like to get the word out to the general public. It's been a "best kept secret" for too long.
By letting folks know about our pet rabbits, we enter into the classic win-win situation. We benefit by finding good homes for our pet rabbits. I don't know a breeder that doesn't need to free up cage space in order to continue their breeding program. And new pet owners benefit by having pets from grand champion stock, pets that were carefully bred to enhance their characteristics, including health and personality.
Pet buyers also benefit from purchasing rabbits from people who can actually answer their questions, sex their rabbit, and tell them what to expect in terms of size and temperment.
My new website Precious Pet Rabbits is a place to begin telling the public about our wonderful rabbits. If you have a rabbitry website and have not yet exchanged links with me, please do! Just go to the How To Link page and follow the simple directions.
I am also looking for a breeder from each breed to be a guest writer for a page on that website. I want to provide more indepth information from a person who is passionate about the breed. If you would be willing to write such an article, please let me know. I would include a short bio of you at the bottom of the article and include links to your website and/or your favorite rabbit club or organization. Take this opportunity to promote your rabbit breed as a great pet.
If you don't feel that you are a strong writer, don't worry. I can always help with the writing part, but you can provide unique information that other people would enjoy reading.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 11:29 AM 0 comments links to this post
Sunday, September 11, 2005
Sandhills Rabbit Fanciers Show In Greensboro, NC
My club, Sandhills Rabbit Fanciers, is hosting a show in Greensboro, NC, on September 17. It is going to be a great show in a fabulous air-conditioned facility. Triple open, double youth (with youth specialty). Cavies. Well organized. Great judges. Thoughtful awards. Lots of fun. I hope I'll see you there.
Laurie ¶ 10:00 AM 0 comments links to this post
Laurie ¶ 10:00 AM 0 comments links to this post
Join The Club
If you are into bunnies, you are a member of the American Rabbit Breeders' Association (or British Rabbit Council), right ? If you have been meaning to join, but haven't, stop right now, click here and do it! You will receive a manual and a magazine that are worth the very minimal cost to join. Remember, without ARBA, we do not have a hobby that would hold together and unite thousands of breeders across the country with common standards and an annual convention, and much more.
And, if you are a Holland lop person like me, you are a member of the Holland Lop Rabbit Specialty Club, too. No? http://www.hlrsc.com. Again, the magazine and manual are well worth the small cost. .
If you are into another breed, go to your specialty club and join right now! If you don't know how to find it or know whether there even is one, just go to ARBA, click on breed photos, and click on the picture of your breed. You will go to the specialty club website, if they have one. National specialty clubs host breed sweepstakes and National breed specialty shows, among other things. You really do want to join.
Whew, now that we've taken care of the big stuff, let's talk about regional and local clubs.
Your regional specialty club hosts specialty shows, usually in conjuction with all-breed clubs. And if your club is very active, you may get the chance to host a national show. One of the clubs I belong to, Classy Country Hollanders, is hosting Holland Lop Nationals in Perry, GA, next spring.
Your local and regional all-breed clubs host rabbit shows. No local clubs, no local shows. Unfortunately, from time to time clubs fold from lack of help. Sometimes 90% of the responsibilities for a show falls on two or three shoulders. When it gets to be too much, the show just vanishes from sight.
It's such a shame to see that happen. I think if more people knew what they can get out of being actively involved in a club and in hosting a show, they just might do it. So here goes . . .
Your rabbit club is a place where you can talk about bunnies and no one ever asks you to change the subject, rolls their eyes, or glazes over from boredom. Everyone else there loves to talk about bunnies, too! That alone is worth joining for.
A club is a place to form even tighter friendships. Friendships simply require time together and shared experiences. The club offers both.
Your rabbit club is a place where you can contribute according to your interests and abilities. Don't think you have nothing to offer a club.
The duties vary from keeping financial records to setting up tables to ordering awards to picking up judges from the airport to making arrangements for your site to taking care of the rabble table and much more. Whether you enjoy physical work and like to build things like judging coops or you like mental work like figuring out who has entered which rabbit where or you like creative work like selecting or making awards, there is definitely something for you.
An ironic twist to life is that work is more satisfying than leisure. The joy of a job well-done for your rabbit club is a great feeling. Having a place to belong and a way to contribute is wonderful. And making sure that our hobby has a place to play out - a location and time for our compeitions, fellowship, and fun - is priceless.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 9:39 AM 0 comments links to this post
And, if you are a Holland lop person like me, you are a member of the Holland Lop Rabbit Specialty Club, too. No? http://www.hlrsc.com. Again, the magazine and manual are well worth the small cost. .
If you are into another breed, go to your specialty club and join right now! If you don't know how to find it or know whether there even is one, just go to ARBA, click on breed photos, and click on the picture of your breed. You will go to the specialty club website, if they have one. National specialty clubs host breed sweepstakes and National breed specialty shows, among other things. You really do want to join.
Whew, now that we've taken care of the big stuff, let's talk about regional and local clubs.
Your regional specialty club hosts specialty shows, usually in conjuction with all-breed clubs. And if your club is very active, you may get the chance to host a national show. One of the clubs I belong to, Classy Country Hollanders, is hosting Holland Lop Nationals in Perry, GA, next spring.
Your local and regional all-breed clubs host rabbit shows. No local clubs, no local shows. Unfortunately, from time to time clubs fold from lack of help. Sometimes 90% of the responsibilities for a show falls on two or three shoulders. When it gets to be too much, the show just vanishes from sight.
It's such a shame to see that happen. I think if more people knew what they can get out of being actively involved in a club and in hosting a show, they just might do it. So here goes . . .
Your rabbit club is a place where you can talk about bunnies and no one ever asks you to change the subject, rolls their eyes, or glazes over from boredom. Everyone else there loves to talk about bunnies, too! That alone is worth joining for.
A club is a place to form even tighter friendships. Friendships simply require time together and shared experiences. The club offers both.
Your rabbit club is a place where you can contribute according to your interests and abilities. Don't think you have nothing to offer a club.
The duties vary from keeping financial records to setting up tables to ordering awards to picking up judges from the airport to making arrangements for your site to taking care of the rabble table and much more. Whether you enjoy physical work and like to build things like judging coops or you like mental work like figuring out who has entered which rabbit where or you like creative work like selecting or making awards, there is definitely something for you.
An ironic twist to life is that work is more satisfying than leisure. The joy of a job well-done for your rabbit club is a great feeling. Having a place to belong and a way to contribute is wonderful. And making sure that our hobby has a place to play out - a location and time for our compeitions, fellowship, and fun - is priceless.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
"Holland Lops Of Distinction"
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/
http://www.thenaturetrail.com/blog/BLOG
¶ 9:39 AM 0 comments links to this post
Sunday, September 04, 2005
Music City RBA, McMinnville, TN, September 3, 2005
I had a great time in McMinnville. It was worth the 6 hour and 47 minute drive there. Actually, I spent most of the time in the car planning future breedings and updates to my website. So even the drive was worthwhile time spent.
And I got to see great friends while I was there. Gary and Susan Smith took the summer off from showing and I hadn't seen them in awhile. It was lovely to visit with them. It's not often I get to see Denise Crafton and her hunk, but McMinnville strikes a balance between our locations, so we got to visit a bit. Jenna Buchenauer came down from PA with Tracy. Brenda Smith and her two girls were there (they kicked butt and took names). And there were many other familiar faces and fun people to chat with.
I showed 18 rabbits, 1/3 of which were first-time juniors taken for opinions only. The competition was very good and there were over 90 Hollands shown.
I wrote for show A, which is a great way to make yourself pay attention to the judging and learn more about a breed. I want to thank Brenda Smith of Narrow Gate Farm for helping me get my bunnies on and off of the table. It was a great help that freed me up to pitch in.
Hollands were judged by Todd Naragon in show A. The Nature Trail's Markie took her class. Mentally, I checked the "yes" box next to "was the trip worth it."
I also made the mental note to move Markie from "show bunny" to "breeder." She's granded and needs to start working on the next generation of The Nature Trail bunnies.
My most promising solid junior buck came in 3rd out of 16, so I was really pleased with that.
Broken senior buck was "my class" this time around. Todd placed them 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st. The Nature Trail's Franz came in second which pleased me enormously since he's only 7 months old. Mentally, I checked off the box labeled "continue to show."
The Nature Trail's Purdy took the broken senior doe class, but there were only four. Drats.
Markie and Merlin (father and daughter, by the way) took both BOSGs. Lukeman Buchenauer took BOB with a broken junior doe and BOS with a solid senior buck.
I got some free raffle tickets for writing. That was a very nice gesture by the Music City RBA. And I won a single hole hanging cage with it. Boy, could I use that!
Tex Thomas judged show B. No go with Markie this time (3rd out of 11), but my solid junior buck Gideon came in second this time. I was happy for the consistent placement he received. I mentally checked off "keeper" next to his name.
My solid junior does were middle fo the pack. Neither is in good fur right now. Tex said that one of them was a movie star rabbit: she has the body of Marilyn Monroe and a head like Phyllis Diller. (Mentally checked off "brood" next to her name). I can line breed her with a big-headed relative. I was actually very pleased with the "good body" comment.
My broken senior bucks didn't do quite as well this time, but almost: 5th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st. But it all worked out in the end.
The Nature Trail's Purdy, also a Merlin daughter, took her class. Still only four does. Darn. I had a broken doe with me for sale. I should have late-entered her!
The Nature Trail's Frenchy, broken junior doe, came in 2nd out of ten. I liked that, too.
Purdy was BOSG for brokens and Merlin was BOV. I barely caught it when Tex announced that Broken Senior Buck was BOB. I was chatting too much. But when I went back to check what I had heard, I was right. Merlin was picked Best of Breed!
And wouldn't you know, Merlin was a last minute substitute because Bear went into a drastic molt (reminds me of the parting of the red sea). I guess that was a well-timed molt!
Todd Naragon picked the BIS/BRIS rabbits. He kept looking at three rabbits: the mini-rex, Netherland dwarf, and Holland lop. The mini-rex was BIS and the Netherland dwarf was BRIS. But Todd did say that if he had an another award to give, it would have been to the Holland.
I'm pretty happy with that.
And I got to see great friends while I was there. Gary and Susan Smith took the summer off from showing and I hadn't seen them in awhile. It was lovely to visit with them. It's not often I get to see Denise Crafton and her hunk, but McMinnville strikes a balance between our locations, so we got to visit a bit. Jenna Buchenauer came down from PA with Tracy. Brenda Smith and her two girls were there (they kicked butt and took names). And there were many other familiar faces and fun people to chat with.
I showed 18 rabbits, 1/3 of which were first-time juniors taken for opinions only. The competition was very good and there were over 90 Hollands shown.
I wrote for show A, which is a great way to make yourself pay attention to the judging and learn more about a breed. I want to thank Brenda Smith of Narrow Gate Farm for helping me get my bunnies on and off of the table. It was a great help that freed me up to pitch in.
Hollands were judged by Todd Naragon in show A. The Nature Trail's Markie took her class. Mentally, I checked the "yes" box next to "was the trip worth it."
I also made the mental note to move Markie from "show bunny" to "breeder." She's granded and needs to start working on the next generation of The Nature Trail bunnies.
My most promising solid junior buck came in 3rd out of 16, so I was really pleased with that.
Broken senior buck was "my class" this time around. Todd placed them 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st. The Nature Trail's Franz came in second which pleased me enormously since he's only 7 months old. Mentally, I checked off the box labeled "continue to show."
The Nature Trail's Purdy took the broken senior doe class, but there were only four. Drats.
Markie and Merlin (father and daughter, by the way) took both BOSGs. Lukeman Buchenauer took BOB with a broken junior doe and BOS with a solid senior buck.
I got some free raffle tickets for writing. That was a very nice gesture by the Music City RBA. And I won a single hole hanging cage with it. Boy, could I use that!
Tex Thomas judged show B. No go with Markie this time (3rd out of 11), but my solid junior buck Gideon came in second this time. I was happy for the consistent placement he received. I mentally checked off "keeper" next to his name.
My solid junior does were middle fo the pack. Neither is in good fur right now. Tex said that one of them was a movie star rabbit: she has the body of Marilyn Monroe and a head like Phyllis Diller. (Mentally checked off "brood" next to her name). I can line breed her with a big-headed relative. I was actually very pleased with the "good body" comment.
My broken senior bucks didn't do quite as well this time, but almost: 5th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st. But it all worked out in the end.
The Nature Trail's Purdy, also a Merlin daughter, took her class. Still only four does. Darn. I had a broken doe with me for sale. I should have late-entered her!
The Nature Trail's Frenchy, broken junior doe, came in 2nd out of ten. I liked that, too.
Purdy was BOSG for brokens and Merlin was BOV. I barely caught it when Tex announced that Broken Senior Buck was BOB. I was chatting too much. But when I went back to check what I had heard, I was right. Merlin was picked Best of Breed!
And wouldn't you know, Merlin was a last minute substitute because Bear went into a drastic molt (reminds me of the parting of the red sea). I guess that was a well-timed molt!
Todd Naragon picked the BIS/BRIS rabbits. He kept looking at three rabbits: the mini-rex, Netherland dwarf, and Holland lop. The mini-rex was BIS and the Netherland dwarf was BRIS. But Todd did say that if he had an another award to give, it would have been to the Holland.
I'm pretty happy with that.