Friday, October 20, 2006
Evaluating a Rabbit
I have a friend with a brand new bunch of bunnies. I feel for all of the work her family will be going through to get to know those bunnies and decide which ones to keep and which to eventually sell. Never mind trying to figure out which are the smart pairs to breed! Her situation has gotten me to thinking about how we evaluate our rabbits anyway.
Whether we are buying rabbits, dividing up a rabbitry, or getting to know our own juniors, we need to know how to evaluate a rabbit. So here are my thoughts on the subject.
Health First
Eyes, nose, and bottom tell the vast amount of the tale when it comes to health. Clear eyes, clean nose, and clean bottom are a must. Take into account any rabbit that has been sitting in a carrier for too long. Also, remember that changes in feed can take a toll. But any small problem with stool should clear up after a couple of days in a clean cage with plenty of hay.
But also look at the rabbit's ears for signs of ear mites and canker. The ear should be clean. There should be no lumps or bumps, other than scars from tattoos and perhaps nips from littermates.
Check between the shoulder blades for signs of dander. Blow into the fur. If you see something that looks like dandruff, you may be looking at fur mites. It's not big deal, actually. Anyone who shows is at risk for them. But you would want to treat for it before exposing your herd to them.
Feel the abdomen and all over the body, searching for lumps or bumps that should not be there. Chin and cheek areas are prone to abscesses. Check the abdomen for pot belly or tumors. Lumps with an open hole at the top (you may have to wash the lump to see the hole) may be a warble - a parasite growing under the skin which requires removal.
Check the footpads for sore hocks. With Hollands, this is not usually a huge issue, but if you see that the feet are starting to wear, you will know to give that rabbit a solid rest surface for a while.
Check the genitals and face for any signs of vent disease - pimples, sores, swelling.
Check for Disqualifications
Check teeth. That's a tough one if the rabbit is nervous and clenching his or her teeth. Try to check the teeth when the jaw is relaxed. Broken teeth should grow back in, in about two weeks. Missing teeth may or may not grow back in, depending on whether it is pulled out or broken at the gum line.
Check nails. Very short nails may actually be mismatched nails. Look at the standard for the rabbit's color to know what you are looking for. The front middle nail is very prone to being mismatched. Dilutes tend to have trouble with white toenails. The intensity of color may be different on the front and back nails, but the nails on the same foot and corresponding foot should match (if the color standard calls for matching; it is not an issue on broken rabbits). Missing nails may not grow back in.
Check toes. Yes, sometimes rabbits do not have the right number of toes, but I'm really thinking about broken toes. You will know one when you feel it. It's very wobbly feeling compared to the rest.
Look in the eyes. You looked at them for matter before. Now look for cloudy spots or dimples in the surface of the eye. Make sure you have good light for this.
Check the fur for foreign white spots or chunks missing that a judge might decide detracts from the rabbit's appearance. These usually appear in the ears. Missing chunks on the body may be from barbering, but they may also be from mange or other problems.
Check the genitals and confirm the sex. Make sure bucks are not split and have two descended testicles (seniors). If you cannot find two testicles, you may be able to get them to descend by thumping or firmly patting the hindquarters. Some judges plop the rabbit on the table from 6 to 8 inches above.
Check for a tail. Some Hollands are missing these or are missing part of the tail. I've never seen a crooked Holland tail, but check for any abnormality in the tail.
You are probably very familiar with the tort color standard. But if you are looking at any other color, you may want to peek into the standard to make sure all requirements are met. Rings or no rings, proper under colors, matching eye colors, and so forth are very important.
Weigh the rabbit.
Conformation
You've already done a ton of work checking out this rabbit. But now it is time to really get into the nitty gritty. There are some awful Hollands that would pass every inspection so far. But you still wouldn't want them in your herd.
I start with the hindquarter because I think that's the most important part. Check for cow hocks, undercut and pinching. The ideal is parallel hind feet, far apart. Most successful Hollands are some close approximation of that. Few are near perfect. But I can't tolerate hind feet that are more V than parallel. They must be mostly parallel. Narrow hindquarters in does especially should not be tolerated.
A full-to-the-table Holland is a valuable thing. Even if it's not up to show quality in other ways, it is usually valuable for a breeding problem.
Check for pin bones. Sure, an underfed rabbit will feel bonier than a well conditioned ones. But a Holland with pin bones will be sharp over the hips no matter what you do. And it's stubborn to breed out, so don't even go there.
Shoulders are tough in Hollands, I think. If you get really wide shoulders, beware. I most often find them in flat rabbits. When I get the really upright, showy rabbit, they often have more narrow shoulders. So, I'm looking for acceptable shoulder width. I will not accept a flat rabbit to get good shoulder width. I'd rather give just a little on the shoulder width and get the proper depth. You have to make your own decision. But try very hard not to keep anything with very narrow shoulders.
I do not tolerate low shoulders very well. Next to a great hindquarter, I think the proper top line is one of the most important parts of a Holland. The shoulder depth starts that top line out right. It should continue at the same or slightly greater depth until over the hips, where it should make a beautiful turn toward the table.
Do not buy or keep anything with a bad slope over the hindquarters. It is too tough to breed out. And it ruins the look of a Holland. It is one of the most difficult parts to properly evaluate because it depends on getting the rabbit well posed. I can make my best rabbits look sloped by posing them badly (and, I unfortunately do sometimes in my photos when I can't get the cooperation I need). I cannot make a sloped rabbit look like it has a great top line, though.
I personally feel that this is one of the important things about Hollands that is not appreciated, evaluated, or understood by many breeders and judges alike. I see sloping Hollands used on rabbitry logos and in rabbitry ads. Obviously, if they saw it as the severe fault that it is, they wouldn't use those pictures that way. And too many judges will place a severely sloping Holland high in the class.
Off my soapbox and moving on . . .
Note whether the rabbit has a wide and deep chest. A narrow or short chest ruins the beefy look of a Holland.
Bone is so important; it sets up the massive look of our Hollands. More than one judge has commented lately that Hollands are getting to be way too light on the bone. Would I keep a perfectly balanced rabbit with light bone over a heavy boned Holland with nothing else much going for it? Probably, if that were the choice. It's probably best to keep neither, in that case. Now if we're talking about medium bone with everything else nice, I'd probably keep it and try to breed it to bone.
I've saved the head for last because I think it's an easier piece to get than a nice hindquarter and top line. Check for full cheeks, broad, even width between the eyes, eyes that are so deeply set that you cannot see them from the front, and a bold eye. Ask yourself whether the head is round, shows good curvature (one of my favorite parts), and is massive.
The ears should ideally start just behind the eye. If it does, that means you have a wide crown and a crown that is set properly and not slipped. Crown definition refers to whether you can see it projecting away from the head. Check for width side to side, width front to back, and vertical depth.
I am picky about my ears. I know they don't carry a huge number of points, but they, with the crown, give the Holland its distinctive look. I keep short, fat, thick, well-furred ears. Yes, if everything else about the rabbit is outstanding, I'll take acceptable ears. But I get really excited about great ears. I almost sold Prescott the other day, but I took another look at those ears - almost as fat as they are long, very thick, and very well furred, and I just couldn't do it.
You do want to evaluate the fur, but it is best to try to figure out where the fur is in its life cycle. If the fur is in its prime condition and still not so hot, you need to take that into consideration. But if it is a dead or slipping coat, a baby coat, or a double coat, you want to take that into consideration, also. Ask yourself to separately evaluate density, texture, color, and length.
There are tons of other things you want to look at including the overall balance and attractiveness of the rabbit. Do the parts really add up? Also, check for hollowness in the loin or just before the hips. Evaluate the rabbit's natural pose and check the spine for deviations. If you have to fight too hard for a pose, be honest with yourself before you just decide he's shy. I think 90% of posing is genetic.
Photograph The Rabbit
If you already have the rabbit home, such as your own juniors or new seniors, then photograph the rabbit. Spend enough time so that you get a well posed front shot and a well posed side shot. Staring at the rabbit trying to see if it's a good shot will teach you so much about the bunny. And, then you'll have photos to use to compare with other rabbits. You will definitely see things you did not see before.
Check The Pedigree
Especially when you are buying a rabbit, but even if you aren't, check the pedigree. When you are buying, you are looking for full information for three generations. This information must include the variety and weight. Ear numbers are optional. You are also looking for lines that you know cross well with yours.
If it is your bunny, then you are looking for family traits that you think the rabbit is starting to show. Also, you will want to get a sense of whether the rabbit is from a slow-developing line or a quick one. It may help you interpret weight, too. I have a line that zooms up to its adult weight and slams on the brakes between 4 and 5 months. I have other bunnies that grow until they are 9 or 10 months old.
If I'm looking at a group of junior bucks, for example, the pedigrees may tell me that I like two brothers from the same litter equally well. In that case, I'll keep the broken and sell the solid! I'm almost just kidding - I do love brokens! In the case of a tie, flip a coin if you don't have cage space. If you do, keep them until you have a clear winner. That's the better answer, of course.
Summary
Now, once you've done all of that about 150 times, you should be pretty good at it. If you are planning to evaluate many rabbits, you might want to make yourself a scorecard for them so you can compare information you gather over a period of time.
Thankfully, our breed is too complex to ever full conquer, but having a plan and consistently following it can help you to make better decisions on buying and culling.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry “Home Of Grand Champions”
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design ¶ 8:41 AM
Whether we are buying rabbits, dividing up a rabbitry, or getting to know our own juniors, we need to know how to evaluate a rabbit. So here are my thoughts on the subject.
Health First
Eyes, nose, and bottom tell the vast amount of the tale when it comes to health. Clear eyes, clean nose, and clean bottom are a must. Take into account any rabbit that has been sitting in a carrier for too long. Also, remember that changes in feed can take a toll. But any small problem with stool should clear up after a couple of days in a clean cage with plenty of hay.
But also look at the rabbit's ears for signs of ear mites and canker. The ear should be clean. There should be no lumps or bumps, other than scars from tattoos and perhaps nips from littermates.
Check between the shoulder blades for signs of dander. Blow into the fur. If you see something that looks like dandruff, you may be looking at fur mites. It's not big deal, actually. Anyone who shows is at risk for them. But you would want to treat for it before exposing your herd to them.
Feel the abdomen and all over the body, searching for lumps or bumps that should not be there. Chin and cheek areas are prone to abscesses. Check the abdomen for pot belly or tumors. Lumps with an open hole at the top (you may have to wash the lump to see the hole) may be a warble - a parasite growing under the skin which requires removal.
Check the footpads for sore hocks. With Hollands, this is not usually a huge issue, but if you see that the feet are starting to wear, you will know to give that rabbit a solid rest surface for a while.
Check the genitals and face for any signs of vent disease - pimples, sores, swelling.
Check for Disqualifications
Check teeth. That's a tough one if the rabbit is nervous and clenching his or her teeth. Try to check the teeth when the jaw is relaxed. Broken teeth should grow back in, in about two weeks. Missing teeth may or may not grow back in, depending on whether it is pulled out or broken at the gum line.
Check nails. Very short nails may actually be mismatched nails. Look at the standard for the rabbit's color to know what you are looking for. The front middle nail is very prone to being mismatched. Dilutes tend to have trouble with white toenails. The intensity of color may be different on the front and back nails, but the nails on the same foot and corresponding foot should match (if the color standard calls for matching; it is not an issue on broken rabbits). Missing nails may not grow back in.
Check toes. Yes, sometimes rabbits do not have the right number of toes, but I'm really thinking about broken toes. You will know one when you feel it. It's very wobbly feeling compared to the rest.
Look in the eyes. You looked at them for matter before. Now look for cloudy spots or dimples in the surface of the eye. Make sure you have good light for this.
Check the fur for foreign white spots or chunks missing that a judge might decide detracts from the rabbit's appearance. These usually appear in the ears. Missing chunks on the body may be from barbering, but they may also be from mange or other problems.
Check the genitals and confirm the sex. Make sure bucks are not split and have two descended testicles (seniors). If you cannot find two testicles, you may be able to get them to descend by thumping or firmly patting the hindquarters. Some judges plop the rabbit on the table from 6 to 8 inches above.
Check for a tail. Some Hollands are missing these or are missing part of the tail. I've never seen a crooked Holland tail, but check for any abnormality in the tail.
You are probably very familiar with the tort color standard. But if you are looking at any other color, you may want to peek into the standard to make sure all requirements are met. Rings or no rings, proper under colors, matching eye colors, and so forth are very important.
Weigh the rabbit.
Conformation
You've already done a ton of work checking out this rabbit. But now it is time to really get into the nitty gritty. There are some awful Hollands that would pass every inspection so far. But you still wouldn't want them in your herd.
I start with the hindquarter because I think that's the most important part. Check for cow hocks, undercut and pinching. The ideal is parallel hind feet, far apart. Most successful Hollands are some close approximation of that. Few are near perfect. But I can't tolerate hind feet that are more V than parallel. They must be mostly parallel. Narrow hindquarters in does especially should not be tolerated.
A full-to-the-table Holland is a valuable thing. Even if it's not up to show quality in other ways, it is usually valuable for a breeding problem.
Check for pin bones. Sure, an underfed rabbit will feel bonier than a well conditioned ones. But a Holland with pin bones will be sharp over the hips no matter what you do. And it's stubborn to breed out, so don't even go there.
Shoulders are tough in Hollands, I think. If you get really wide shoulders, beware. I most often find them in flat rabbits. When I get the really upright, showy rabbit, they often have more narrow shoulders. So, I'm looking for acceptable shoulder width. I will not accept a flat rabbit to get good shoulder width. I'd rather give just a little on the shoulder width and get the proper depth. You have to make your own decision. But try very hard not to keep anything with very narrow shoulders.
I do not tolerate low shoulders very well. Next to a great hindquarter, I think the proper top line is one of the most important parts of a Holland. The shoulder depth starts that top line out right. It should continue at the same or slightly greater depth until over the hips, where it should make a beautiful turn toward the table.
Do not buy or keep anything with a bad slope over the hindquarters. It is too tough to breed out. And it ruins the look of a Holland. It is one of the most difficult parts to properly evaluate because it depends on getting the rabbit well posed. I can make my best rabbits look sloped by posing them badly (and, I unfortunately do sometimes in my photos when I can't get the cooperation I need). I cannot make a sloped rabbit look like it has a great top line, though.
I personally feel that this is one of the important things about Hollands that is not appreciated, evaluated, or understood by many breeders and judges alike. I see sloping Hollands used on rabbitry logos and in rabbitry ads. Obviously, if they saw it as the severe fault that it is, they wouldn't use those pictures that way. And too many judges will place a severely sloping Holland high in the class.
Off my soapbox and moving on . . .
Note whether the rabbit has a wide and deep chest. A narrow or short chest ruins the beefy look of a Holland.
Bone is so important; it sets up the massive look of our Hollands. More than one judge has commented lately that Hollands are getting to be way too light on the bone. Would I keep a perfectly balanced rabbit with light bone over a heavy boned Holland with nothing else much going for it? Probably, if that were the choice. It's probably best to keep neither, in that case. Now if we're talking about medium bone with everything else nice, I'd probably keep it and try to breed it to bone.
I've saved the head for last because I think it's an easier piece to get than a nice hindquarter and top line. Check for full cheeks, broad, even width between the eyes, eyes that are so deeply set that you cannot see them from the front, and a bold eye. Ask yourself whether the head is round, shows good curvature (one of my favorite parts), and is massive.
The ears should ideally start just behind the eye. If it does, that means you have a wide crown and a crown that is set properly and not slipped. Crown definition refers to whether you can see it projecting away from the head. Check for width side to side, width front to back, and vertical depth.
I am picky about my ears. I know they don't carry a huge number of points, but they, with the crown, give the Holland its distinctive look. I keep short, fat, thick, well-furred ears. Yes, if everything else about the rabbit is outstanding, I'll take acceptable ears. But I get really excited about great ears. I almost sold Prescott the other day, but I took another look at those ears - almost as fat as they are long, very thick, and very well furred, and I just couldn't do it.
You do want to evaluate the fur, but it is best to try to figure out where the fur is in its life cycle. If the fur is in its prime condition and still not so hot, you need to take that into consideration. But if it is a dead or slipping coat, a baby coat, or a double coat, you want to take that into consideration, also. Ask yourself to separately evaluate density, texture, color, and length.
There are tons of other things you want to look at including the overall balance and attractiveness of the rabbit. Do the parts really add up? Also, check for hollowness in the loin or just before the hips. Evaluate the rabbit's natural pose and check the spine for deviations. If you have to fight too hard for a pose, be honest with yourself before you just decide he's shy. I think 90% of posing is genetic.
Photograph The Rabbit
If you already have the rabbit home, such as your own juniors or new seniors, then photograph the rabbit. Spend enough time so that you get a well posed front shot and a well posed side shot. Staring at the rabbit trying to see if it's a good shot will teach you so much about the bunny. And, then you'll have photos to use to compare with other rabbits. You will definitely see things you did not see before.
Check The Pedigree
Especially when you are buying a rabbit, but even if you aren't, check the pedigree. When you are buying, you are looking for full information for three generations. This information must include the variety and weight. Ear numbers are optional. You are also looking for lines that you know cross well with yours.
If it is your bunny, then you are looking for family traits that you think the rabbit is starting to show. Also, you will want to get a sense of whether the rabbit is from a slow-developing line or a quick one. It may help you interpret weight, too. I have a line that zooms up to its adult weight and slams on the brakes between 4 and 5 months. I have other bunnies that grow until they are 9 or 10 months old.
If I'm looking at a group of junior bucks, for example, the pedigrees may tell me that I like two brothers from the same litter equally well. In that case, I'll keep the broken and sell the solid! I'm almost just kidding - I do love brokens! In the case of a tie, flip a coin if you don't have cage space. If you do, keep them until you have a clear winner. That's the better answer, of course.
Summary
Now, once you've done all of that about 150 times, you should be pretty good at it. If you are planning to evaluate many rabbits, you might want to make yourself a scorecard for them so you can compare information you gather over a period of time.
Thankfully, our breed is too complex to ever full conquer, but having a plan and consistently following it can help you to make better decisions on buying and culling.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry “Home Of Grand Champions”
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design ¶ 8:41 AM
