Room To Name
I am so excited about the policy change going into effect on July 1, 2006. We will now be able to name our rabbits longer names - and get it all on the registration certificate! Yeah!Currently, we are limited to 22 characters (letters and punctuation, but not spaces, as I understand it). I first ran into this rule when I registered The Nature Trail's Mercedes. Her name is one letter too long. I had to register her as Nature Trail's Mercedes. And I decided right then to name all of my rabbits with names seven letters or fewer in length.But now, we have 8 more letters and/or characters to play with! I will be changing Mercedes' name for certain. While we will not be allowed to change names on existing rabbits, we can add to the existing name or make corrections (see page 15 of the current Domestic Rabbit - middle column - #2). I should be able to add the "The" back to her name for the sake of her offspring and descendent's registrations.So, in honor of the change, I've named my most recent kits (The Nature Trail's Antony x GC The Nature Trail's May): - The Nature Trail's Fiddlesticks
- The Nature Trail's Prince William
- The Nature Trail's Imagination
You can expect some polysyllabic expressions of exuberance on my part for say, oh, the next 50 kits or so. I'm loving it!
What's next? Nebuchadnezzar? Rumplestiltskin? Skimbleshanks? Rumpelteazer? Little Red Riding Hood?
No Red - it's still too long!
Laurie Stroupe T
he Nature Trail Rabbitry
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design
Show Rules Quiz
One of the subjects we reviewed this past weekend at the Judges Academy was show rules. I definitely learned a few things. Let's see how well you do with my little quiz.- Where can you find a copy of the show rules?
- How many rabbits must be judged in a breed before the sponsoring club is required to pay the awards required by the specialty clubs?
- It is mandatory to choose a Best Reserve In Show rabbit?
- Judges must award the Best Of Breed in each breed. Are ARBA judges authorized to pick a "Best Opposite Sex Junior," if requested by the sponsoring club?
- We all know that you may substitute a rabbit of the same sex, class, variety, group, and breed for the one you entered. Is there a situation in which this is not allowed?
- Do the rules say that a rabbit with an illegible tattoo may be disqualified or must be disqualified?
- Who is responsible for making sure that diseased rabbits are removed from the showroom?
- Can rabbits be entered under a rabbitry name only?
- If a judge determines that you have been faking (plucking, dying, trimming or any other action designed to deceive), can he or she disqualify that rabbit or your entire entry?
- True or false: As long as you are willing to risk $25, you can protest anything at a show.
Here are the answers:
- You can find a copy of the show rules in your year book.
- Section 9: There must be ten or more animals judged before a sponsoring club is required to honor the minimum awards required by specialty clubs. If the sponsoring club had the award donated, then the award is given regardless of the number of animals judged. Nothing prevents a club from making the award if they choose, however.
- Section 10: It is mandatory to select a Best In Show. It is not mandatory to select a Best Reserve. [However, some specialty clubs award quality points for BRIS, so a club would be foolish, in my opinion, not to. You do not get a leg for BRIS, which is generally not an issue with Hollands since the leg is almost always won already.]
- Section 11: Yes, choosing Best Junior, Best Intermediate, and Best Senior are real awards recognized by ARBA. If there is more than one variety, then the best opposites of these can also be selected.
- Section 23: Substitutions can no longer be made once judging for that breed commences.
- Section 26 (a): Rabbits with illegible tattoos must be disqualified. However, the judge gets to determine what illegible is.
- Section 27: Show management is responsible for removing diseased and unsightly specimens from the show room. [If you see a diseased rabbit, go to the show superintendent and not the judge. It is a judge's responsibility to DQ what they observe, not to police the showroom.]
- Section 30: All animals must be the bona fide property of the exhibitor prior to entry. Even if they bought the rabbit at 8:00 a.m. that morning (before entry), they may be considered to be the bona fide owner. It must be entered under each owner's name. A rabbitry name may be listed in addition to the owners' names.
- Section 47: A judge may disqualify the rabbit or the entire entry at his or her discretion. What that means is that your entire entry is at risk if you are discovered to be faking. [It is in your best interest to respond politely to the judge, who may be taking your attitude into account when deciding whether it should be the rabbit or the entry that goes.]
- Section 48: False. Only certain things are protestable. There is a long list of items that are considered to be left to the judge's discretion. There are only 3 categories of protestable reasons. If a judge placed a DQ'd rabbit, you may protest. If you feel that the judge has been fraudulent, you may protest. You may also protest if a rabbit has been wrongfully disqualified. That's where we run into the long list of disqualifications that are not protestable. Check out page 24 of your Standard of Perfection. You cannot protest for general ailments such as slobbers or pot belly, colds, tumors, swellings, hernias, eye discharge, abnormalities, tattoos, blindness, dewlaps, crooked legs, ear carriage, torn ears, simple malocclusion, sore hocks, broken or missing teeth, screw tail or bobtail, missing toenails, excessive white hairs, foreign spots, unworthy of award, and more.
Note that you must file your protest within two hours!
There are many other interesting show rules. Do you know what happens if a rabbit dies on the show table? How about an injury that occurs at the show? What does the standard say about molesting judges?
Take some time to read and find out!
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design
The Basics
What do rabbits really need? What are the basics, anyway? Ask ten breeders and you might get ten different answers, but here are mine.WaterIt is my opinion that water is the most important of the basics. A clean, consistent water supply is essential to general health and good condition. I believe the water should be consistent both in its availability and in its quality. That is, giving well water one week, and chlorinated water the next, and filtered the next is not consistent in quality. The water will vary in bacteria, chemicals, and minerals.A Holland needs about 1/2 cup of water per day. So I make sure they have at least one cup per adult rabbit. I have an automatic watering system, but I am liberal in the use of crocks as well. Since I recently wrote about water in detail, I'll not expound any further.FeedAlthough it is possible to raise rabbits on vegetables and complex, varied diets, the basics would be pelleted feed. I think that Hollands thrive best on lower protein feeds. I have used a 16% feed with satisfaction. I now use a higher level protein, but unlimited hay and probiotics plus no carbohydrate treats make that work, in my opinion. It's very easy to push a Holland on a high protein feed over the edge into enteritis or other problems otherwise.It is extremely important that you feed the correct amount of feed. Non-lactating adult rabbits should never be free-fed, in my opinion. That leads to an excess of cecal matter and an imbalance in the hind gut.But neither should rabbits be underfed. Read the recommendation by the maker of your feed. Feed amounts are generally given in ounces by weight. That means you need to weigh your feed! I think that generally 3 oz. of feed is appropriate for a Holland lop. But that might be 1/3 cup in one brand, 1/2 cup in another, and, as it is with the extruded feed I use, 3/4 cup!HayIf you feed a lower protein diet and don't give carbohydrate treats or conditioners, you might get away with feeding little or not hay. I say "might" because you'll never know until you start losing rabbits. It's not worth the risk to me.I do think that the higher your protein level or the larger the proportion of carbohydrate treats in the rabbit's diet, the more they need their hay. Rabbits need a high fiber, relatively low protein, low fat, low carbohydrate diet. Hay fits that profile perfectly.ProtectionHere's a quick list of what a rabbit should be protected from:- Wind
- Draft in cold weather
- Precipitation/dampness
- Direct sunshine
- Heat
- Predators
- Sudden noises and/or movement
Protection from wind can come from being inside a house or barn or from being covered with a tarp. I've read that one solid side and a top are sufficient. I think that two adjoining solid sides is better; it gives them a corner to snuggle into.
Rabbits inside a barn may still be in a drafty place. That might be great in the summer. They'll love the air movement then. But in the cold, that can cause a problem. A draft reduces the rabbit's ability to conserve its own body heat. You can stop the draft, move the cage, or give the rabbit a small enclosure where it can go to get out of the draft.
Rabbits cannot maintain their body head efficiently if they are wet. While a mild mist in very hot weather is unlikely to cause a problem, being damp in the winter is deadly.
A rabbit exposed to direct sunlight with no place to get into the shade can die on a relatively cool day. It doesn't need to be 95 degrees to be a problem. Take sun exposure very seriously and give all of your rabbits shade.
Visitors to my barn are often concerned about the weather being too cold for their rabbits. Their concern is totally misplaced. As long as the rabbit is dry, out of a draft, and has some way to conserve body heat, it doesn't get too cold in most places in the US for that to be a real concern. But almost every place in the US gets hot enough to kill a rabbit. Heat is the much bigger enemy.
Fans, misters, swamp coolers, ice packs, and large crocks of icy water can all be used to help your rabbit stay cool. We place the sprinkler on top of the barn on hot days in the summer and that cools things down a few degrees.
I used to think that raccoons were so cute - that is, until I learned that they will reach those cute little hands right into a nest box and steal away my kits! Cats, dogs, raccoons, snakes, rats, and much more would love to get their paws, teeth, or scales on your bunnies. And animals such as dogs need not even touch your rabbits to kill them.
Don't wait until you've lost rabbits or your rabbits have lost toes to fence your hutch area or to block the entrances to your barn. I personally need to take this advice and reinforce the rocks around the base of the barn, which are there to discourage animals from digging under the barn walls. The windows are covered with hardware cloth. So far, this has worked well for me.
Sudden noises and movements are tough to deal with. Rabbits can literally die of fright. And, even more common, they can thump so hard that they injure or even break their backs. July 4 is one day I need to learn to anticipate. A radio tuned to 24 hours of talk radio would help muffle outside sounds. Otherwise, it's just a matter of being aware. Working on the motorcycle just outside the barn is a bad idea. Teaching the children not to run or scream in the barn is a good idea.
Clipping Nails
I must include clipping nails as one of the basics. Without it, a rabbit cannot stay healthy. Long nails change the way the rabbit uses his foot and shifts pressure. That can lead to sore hocks. Long nails are also more likely to be broken or torn out.
The Rest
As long as you attend to these basics, your rabbit can be healthy and content. Beyond these basics, grooming and petting, providing toys and time outside the cage, using conditioners and giving treats can round out your program and enhance your rabbit's life. Perhaps you will stumble on a secret to giving your rabbits an edge on the show table. All of these extras are great. But they all depend on first providing the basics.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design
Rabbit Genetics Quiz
I'm heading out the door in a few minutes to talk with three seventh grade science classes about rabbit genetics. We'll be discussing the pattern gene, dwarfing gene, and wool gene in particular today. After we talk about the genes for awhile and go through an exercise where students play the parts of genes, they will be given these three questions to work on in small groups. See how well you can do with them. Email me if you get stuck and need the answers!
Question 1
You have two Holland Lops. One is a buck with normal fur – his genotype is L L. The other is a doe with normal fur that carries the recessive wool gene (L l). You may breed these two rabbits together. Also, you may breed the offspring back to a parent (this is called line breeding, which is practiced in rabbit breeding, both by breeders and in nature). You can also breed the offspring together. This is called inbreeding (also practiced by breeders and in nature).
Paper breed your rabbits to show the possible offspring. Then you may use any offspring to paper breed future generations.What is the fewest number of breedings you must do in order to possibly produce a fuzzy Holland Lop (genotype l l)? Use Punnet squares to show how that could work.
If you were a breeder, what could prevent you from actually producing the fuzzy Holland lop in that number of breedings?
Bonus: Would you consider the normal fur gene to be completely dominant or incompletely dominant?
Question 2
You have a Holland Lop buck. He is a handsome devil of about four pounds. You cannot tell from looking at him whether he is a true dwarf or a false dwarf.
By evaluating the offspring from his breedings, how could you figure out whether he is a true dwarf or a false dwarf? You may use known true dwarf does and/or known false dwarf does.
How would your plan change if you only had false dwarf does available?
Use Dw to show the normal gene and dw for the dwarfing gene.
Dw-Dw is a false dwarf or “normal”
Dw-dw is a true dwarf
dw-dw is the genetically fatal combination that produces the peanut
Bonus: Would you consider the normal gene to be completely dominant or incompletely dominant?
Question 3
Holland lops are shown in two groups: solids and brokens. It is important to have rabbits to show in both groups to be completitive.
Part A: All of your bucks are solid. Half of your does are solid. Half of your does are broken. If your litters are born solid or broken exactly as the Punnet squares predict, how many brokens and how many solids would you have in your first 100 offspring?
Part B: Every time you breed, you choose a solid buck and a broken doe OR you choose a broken buck and a solid doe. If your litters are born solid or broken exactly as the Punnet squares predict, how many brokens and how many solids would you have in your first 100 offspring?
Part C: You want to produce as many brokens as solids. But sometimes, your very best matches between bucks and does are solid to solid. What can you do in your barn to keep the number of brokens and solid balanced?
Charlie (double broken pattern – usually not showable) - En En
Broken – En en
Solid – en en
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design
Website Design Services
I am currently working on several websites. I cannot wait to get them finished so you can see them. One is a double site for a mother and daughter! I am having so much fun designing for different personalities and different styles.Beginning June 1, I will be raising my prices for web design services. During the month of May, I will continue accepting new sites under the current pricing structure. If I receive your deposit this month for a site to be started in May, June, or July, you can get an 8-page website design for $200 ($20 for each extra page). You pay for your site design in three payments, beginning with a $60 deposit.If you've been thinking about maybe having a customized site created just for you, now is the time to jump on it. I will design for any breed and even for other species. Holland lop sites get the extra advantage of exchanging links with other sites I've done, which could give you visitors right from the beginning! All new sites are announced on this BLOG and are linked by The Nature Trail Rabbitry website.Check out these websites:I believe that a good website will pay for itself. People simply cannot buy things they do not know about. One website owner wrote to me that rabbits were flying out of her barn after we finished her site.
Sure, it's a lot of hard work to collect the information for a site, but summer show schedules are generally a bit light. There are lots of good weather days for photographing rabbits, and life generally flows at a somewhat slower pace. Now is the perfect time to do it.Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design