The May, Must, and Cannot of Color Genes
You may wish to pull up or print out the chart of 144 rabbit coat colors and their genotypes before reading this BLOG post. It will make much more sense if you are aware of the genotypes of some of the more common Holland lop colors. From time to time, folks write me about their color gene mysteries. Most of the time, it's really no mystery. Once a few basic concepts are understood, the inquirer "sees" what's going on. Occasionally, we find an error in a pedigree. Perhaps kits were fostered and not tracked appropriately. Sometimes people change colors when they copy pedigree information.This weekend, I saw a pedigree for one of the rabbits I pedigreed - on different paper, from a different computer program, and with a different color listed - totally inaccurate. Those types of things shouldn't happen, but they do.But let's say that the information you have is accurate. What does it tell us about the kits we might produce?Two Recessive Genes"Musts" and "Cannots" come in when both parents carry two recessive genes in the same location. If you have two self rabbits (aa), for example, they must produce selfs and cannot produce agoutis or martens or tans or otters. You can eliminate 2/3 of all possible colors if you know that both parents are "aa."Likewise, if both parents are "ee," such as with tort, blue tort, sable point, blue point, orange, fawn, ermine, blue ermine and the like, then the offspring must be also an "ee" color and cannot be an "E" color. One of the biggest applications of this concept comes when you have a rabbit that you think might be a smoke pearl (blue sable). If neither parent has the E gene, such as found in black, blue, Siamese sable, chestnut, opal, chinchilla, and squirrel, then you cannot have a smoke pearl. You probably have a blue point.Other CannotsCertain genes are dominant and recessive, being in the middle of a dominant-recessive sandwich. The a-series has three genes, the c-series has five genes, and the e-series has four genes. In those cases, you cannot produce rabbits with a more dominant gene than the most dominant one possessed by a parent.That sounds more confusing than it is. If you breed an otter and a self rabbit, you cannot produce an agouti color. If you've got a puzzler, don't even list an agouti color among the possibilities.Likewise, if you breed a rew to a chinchilla, there's no need to consider any full colors (C-gene).Dominant GenesWhen even one parent has a dominant gene, things can become more interesting. You do not usually know what the other gene hides, unless the parents of that rabbit have given you a clue. Or perhaps previous offspring have given you the information you need.Suppose you have a black rabbit. You know that it is aa B- C- D- E. But what are those recessive genes? Could this rabbit produce a blue? a tort?First, look at its parents. If one of them is a tort, which frequently happens, you know that that parent only had a recessive "e" gene to donate. So you can update the genes thus: aa B- C- D- Ee. Now you can see that this rabbit can easily produce a tort.Perhaps the other parent was blue. Therefore, that parent would only have had a recessive "d" to donate. Now we can update the genotype again: aa B- C- Dd Ee. But maybe one parent was a sable point instead. Then we can say that the second c-series gene is either a sable gene, himi gene, or rew gene (the sable gene plus the rew or himi gene makes for a properly-gened sable point - we wouldn't know which of these was inherited).Ferreting It OutI have a doe that produced a REW in one litter. She's a tort, so I can update her genotype to Cc. In another litter, she produced a sable point. I can update the sire's genotype to Ccchl (full color plus the sable gene).That's one example of combining information from different litters to determine what those recessive genes can be.When you have puzzlers, first list the genotype for the rabbit. Fill in as much as you can from the parents. Next, go to the chart of 144 rabbit coat colors. Eliminate all of the "cannots" based on the genotype that you know. Then, eliminate the "cannots" based on your visual information. If it is a light-colored rabbit, you can strike black and Siamese sable, for example.By this time, you will have a very small pool of colors to work with, I'm guessing. It's time to whittle away a bit more. If you are not specifically working with chocolates in your barn or in the lines you work with, you can assume that the rabbit is BB. Even though it is theoretically possible that chocolate hid for generations, it's pretty rare unless you specifically go after it.White or light bellies versus colored bellies will give you a clue about the a-series gene. So will eye circles, nose markings, ear lacing, and triangles behind the head. Eye color will clue you in to the rew or himi gene. A ruby glow to the eye might give you a hint about recessive c-series genes (usually REW). If the color is different at the extremities, look at the c-series and e-series for answers there. Both the sable gene and "e" gene have that effect.Deciding The ColorUsually, you can limit the choices based on your genetic information. Then the visual inspection of the rabbit confirms the color for you. But what if you narrow it down genetically to a blue point, blue, and smoke pearl, for example? Perhaps your visual inspection doesn't convince you of one over the other. Maybe the rabbit is molty, so it doesn't appear to be one solid color, but it could be. What next?The proof is in the pudding, or, in our case, in the kits. Breeding that rabbit to a REW will test out the c-series genes. Breeding to an "ee" rabbit should let you know about the presence of the E in the tested rabbit. Let's say you breed this bluish rabbit with a rew and get a sable point and a REW. Then you'd know that the tested rabbit is either a smoke pearl or a blue point. You could eliminate the blue, which needs a full color gene. Next, you breed the rabbit to several torts. Let's say there are ten kits in all and none of them are black or blue. They are all sable points or torts. Then we can pretty safely assume (due to the number of kits), that the rabbit in question in an "ee" rabbit, and therefore a blue point, since smoke pearl would require the "E" gene.SummaryIf this BLOG boggled your mind, don't worry. Until you learn some of the more common genotypes, it can really be difficult to grasp. I suggest that you learn tort: aa B- C- D- ee, sable point: aa B- cchl- D- ee, black: aa B- C- D- E, blue: aa B- C- dd E-, blue point: aa B- C- dd ee, and and blue tort: aa B- C- dd ee. Even more important is to learn the relationship between the colors: - blue tort is the dilute of tort,
- blue is the dilute of black,
- blue point is the dilute of sable point,
- tort and black are just alike except that black is full extension and tort is non-extension
- blue tort and blue are just alike except that blue is full extension and tort is non-extension
- sable point and Siamese sable are just alike except that Siamese sable is full extension and sable point is non-extension
- tort and sable point only differ in the c-series gene
- blue tort and blue point only differ in the c-series gene
- black and Siamese sable and seal only differ in the c-series gene
- blue and smoke pearl only differ in the c-series gene
- black and chestnut agouti only differ in the a-series gene
So when you have a puzzler, write down what you know must be there, eliminate the colors that cannot occur, and make a close visual inspection to determine the color.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry “Home Of Grand Champions”
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design
Fall Festival, Shelby, NC, Shows
The Fall Festival is a combination group of specialty shows and then a single open hosted by Footnotes. The attendance was really down this year. I'm sure part of the reason is it nearness to Convention. I know I left my Convention babies at home, with the exception of two possibles. The other reason is probably the lack of variety among the judges. I know that I have personally had each of the judges save one during the last several weeks.In fact, the main reason I went to this show was to try to grand Francesca, who just turned senior. I'm glad to report that she did grand with a BOG/BOS in the first show and an additional senior leg in the second show. Mission accomplished: all else was gravy.I was wondering whether I should take Francesca to Convention. She's just a young senior that I hesitated. I think now that it will depend on which two solid senior does is in best condition when it's time to pack. But she's definitely in the mix.I also had a broken junior buck that I love, though he's pretty tiny. I wondered if he'd be giving any consideration. Well, since he was BOB - over Rio - in the first show, I'm thinking he's going to be bumping another broken junior buck out of his spot. That was just the confirmation I was looking for.Rio was BOB in the second specialty show. He was also named "Best of the Best," a competition among all of the Best of Breeds from all of the specialty shows. He earned a very nice plaque, which was nice. Kitty was BOS with her solid junior doe, I believe.Rio was also BOB in the open show. Gary & Susan Smith took the BOS with their very pretty solid senior doe. And I finally got a leg on MLK. I just love that black senior buck. He's been showing well for me, but has been beaten out by Quincy and Wizard and others. He was BOSG in the open show and I'm just thrilled.Beauty picked up her first leg. If she will just get a senior coat in, we might go somewhere with that gal. Bustopher picked up his first junior leg as well.I showed my Silver Foxes in the open show. The doe beat the buck, as I expected. When he molts out his fur, he will probably beat her - unless her appetite perks up in the meantime! The best comment I heard was that they seemed compatible for breeding, with counterbalancing strengths. Maybe I'll get a kit that is better than either of them.As always, the best part was catching dinner after the show. The worst part is the long drive home. But compared to some of the drives I've had lately, this one was a piece of cake.By the way, I did not skip my BLOG on Friday because it was Friday the 13th. I didn't even notice the date. It was because I could not get into the program to write it. Just chalk it up to technical problems. Hmmmmm. Maybe it was because of Friday the 13th after all!Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry “Home Of Grand Champions”
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site DesignLabels: rabbit show report
The Benefits of Membership Or What Are All Of These Clubs, Anyway?
Let’s start with the biggest organization for rabbits. Every rabbit breeder, fancier, or exhibitor (who lives in the areas served) should be a member of ARBA. Here’s what you get for your money:
- A nifty handbook on raising rabbits and cavies
- A quarterly magazine
- The ability to register qualified rabbits
- The ability to grand rabbits
- The option of getting Best In Show Certificates
- The option of attending the ARBA National Convention
- The right to vote for officers and changes to the constitution
- The potential to serve as an officer, director, or state representative
But beyond that, by supporting the very existence of ARBA, we get trained judges, a registration system, standards to breed toward, rules and regulations to show by, and set criteria for what constitutes a grand champion. Sure, those who don’t join ARBA can still show their rabbits and benefit from the trained judges, standards, rules & regulations, and can even claim to have Grand Champions by virtue of collecting legs (even if they don’t actually send them in and support the system by paying their GC fees).
ARBA, by the way, is the authority on who officially owns which rabbits. There’s no official record for juniors, but registered seniors have their owners listed. Rabbits must be shown in the names of the owners. So, if an adult is listed as the owner or one of the owners, that rabbit may not be shown by a youth. If one person owns a rabbit, it should not be shown by a co-op. The rabbit’s registration, if the rabbit is registered, is documentation of the official owner of the rabbit.
Some co-ops avoid the problem by not registering their rabbits, I’m told. That’s definitely their option. My choice is to support all of the clubs and programs that I benefit so much from. Of course, I’m a registrar, so of course I’m biased in favor of registering rabbits!
But joining ARBA is just the beginning. The next step is to join the national specialty club for your breed. I think it’s important to understand the relationship between ARBA and these national specialty clubs. They are chartered through ARBA. The specialty clubs must follow ARBA rules first and then may make other rules not in conflict with ARBA rules.
Here’s what you get when you join a specialty club:
- A nifty handbook on raising your specific breed (this is true of Holland lops, but I can’t vouch for every breed)
- The right to participate in the national sweeps contest for your breed
- The right to vote for officers and changes to the constitution
- The potential to serve as an officer or director
So, thus far we know that ARBA Convention, registrations, and grand champions are ARBA things. National breed sweepstakes fall into the domain of the national specialty club.
Next you want to join a regional all-breed club. Usually, that is a state association. But ARBA also charters circuits. A state association is pretty easy to figure out – it covers the local clubs within a state (or commonwealth, as in the case of Virginia). A circuit operates pretty much the same way, but the member clubs may cross state lines. There aren’t many circuits. There is one in the NC/SC region – Footnotes Show Circuit.
The state association or show circuit may also run a sweepstakes competition of its own. Some have newsletters. The same rights about voting and serving apply here, too. In addition, state associations may have royalty programs, youth judging contests, annual banquets, and other special activities not normally associated with local clubs.
State associations and show circuits are chartered through ARBA. They must follow ARBA rules first and then may make other rules that do not conflict with ARBA rules. Local clubs may be members of the state associations and purchase sanctions from them in order to participate in the sweepstakes contest. When state associations or circuits have shows, look for the ARBA sanction to make sure that legs are available for all breeds. Look for the specialty club sanction to make sure that sweepstakes points are available, if you are interested in that sort of thing.
Next, we have regional specialty clubs. These are chartered through ARBA as well. These clubs sponsor National shows for their breed and specialty shows, often in conjunction with an all-breed show sponsored by an all-breed club. Occasionally, you will find stand-alone specialty shows. In our region, the Triple Crown is an example. This year, two specialty clubs will come together to have three Netherland Dwarf specialty shows and three Holland Lop specialty shows on one day, with no all-breed show. Sometimes, a specialty club will sponsor for an all-breed show judges who are very skilled in their breed to make showing for their members more worthwhile. So you want to join your regional specialty club. There are lots of benefits.
Local clubs are where the rubber hits the road. Local clubs are the worker ants of the rabbit club animal kingdom. They often work silently in tiny ways but manage to get an awful lot done. Without local clubs, those shows I go to virtually every week would not exist. So by joining a local club, and being active, you are saying that you are willing to roll up your sleeves and do your part to make all of this work.
Local clubs host local shows, purchasing sanctions from ARBA so that they can issue legs and BIS awards. They purchase sanctions from National clubs (normally not all of them, so check the catalog for which are sanctioned) so that points may be awarded for national breed sweepstakes contests. They often purchase sanctions for their state association or regional show circuit to participate in those sweeps contests as well.
Many local clubs publish newsletters. Some have Yahoo! Groups. Some meet monthly. Most do all of the work that they do with just a few active members.
Luckily, none of these memberships cost much. You probably spend that much on raffle tickets at just one or two shows. But what you get for your membership fees is invaluable. And what you can accomplish by joining and being an active member is immeasurable. Join today.
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry “Home Of Grand Champions”
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design
The Work Of Convention
Which of these sounds best to you?- You arrive at Convention, coop your rabbits, meet with friends, buy and sell, sightsee, go to the banquet, collect your awards, and go home
- You arrive at Convention, coop your rabbits, meet with friends, buy and sell, carry rabbits or work at the tables, donate to the auctions, sightsee, attend the club meeting, attend the banquet, collect your awards, and go home
These two are not a lot different. But in the first one, the person has chosen to suck all of the good out of Convention without giving anything back.
Last year, a couple of breeders looked out over the show floor while the judging was going on. There was a group of people working hard. Of the worker bees, many were carrying rabbits. Some were writing or ramrodding. The majority of the breeders were not working; they were buying and selling, visiting, or not there at all.
Of course, some people have more than one breed. Some have children in the youth area that must be supervised. Some people aren't physically able to carry rabbits (though don't be fooled, all those who carry rabbits all day go to their motel in pain and with extreme fatigue). There are some legitimate excuses for not pitching in. But is it fair to bring 25 entries and not carry a single rabbit? Or are you fooling anyone if you bring 30 and carry 5? How many people bring 4 rabbits and carry 50? Is there a point where you become such an important breeder than such tasks are beneath you? I don't think so.
A seasoned breeder recently said to me that she believe every breeder should carry at least as many rabbits as they entered (it would actually need to be twice the number to account for the trip to the table and back again). That sounds like a good minimum, doesn't it? Then, we'd each just have to carry a few more to help out those who are writing and ramrodding, judging other breeds, working with their kids, are physical unable to help, or could not attend Convention, but were able to send rabbits.
Last year at Convention, there were over 1300 Hollands. Each Holland is carried twice. That's 2600 trips back or forth to a cage. Did you do your share?
Laurie Stroupe
The Nature Trail Rabbitry “Home Of Grand Champions”
Precious Pet Rabbits
Affordable Web Site Design